j-roadtatts

I know how you feel.

Very nice Battery!!! I have the same fuse holder.

Hopefully not offspring of yours?

damn i bet those doors are solid... they are going to be, but thats the idea.hehe. On the other hand the doors are going to be heavy as hell.

With just the 7-8lbs of damplifier already made the door seem like my wife was slamming it every time she closed it. I might need to add a gas strut or something to slow the door down with all that extra weight? We shall see.

The MDF I used came from Lowes, for what its worth. I do NOT have a table saw either, so I hear you about the cuts.(just joking on that one,hehe) The peaky I refer to is not from listening to the box, but knocking on it, I guess peaky is the wrong word maybe, When knocking on the box, the resonate freq. of the MDF sounded higher. My bad for wrong use of words. I don't want to agrue with you guys, I want to learn what your thoughts are on the subject. I started fiberglassing my enclosure and was told not to waste my time. My box is in a DD and is more geared toward SQ. I was using the fiberglass to strenghten the box and also to seal air leaks. WELL when PPL with more experience than me, tell me its a waste of time, I listen BECAUSE If I don't its like telling them to "F" off, and was pointless to ask thier advice in the first place if I am NOT going to use it. SO here we are today dicussing the subject, Like I said I personally can think of pro's and con's to using it. In competition I "guess" that it could be dependent from one car to the next and should be tested. For an everyday box used for normal music listening and an occasional burp, what benifits do YOU GUYS (ibanender, shizzzon, anyone that has actually had a fiberglassed box) think the benifits could be. i.e. material strenght gains, maybe less flex, help or hurt SQ, What changes in sound where achived, any change in box tuning, possibbly peakier/flater response curve, db gain/loss, more mechanical noise, warmer sound, slow down/speed up sound waves/air flow, destructive destortion/canellation from reflections inside the box, affects from rapid wheather changes, tranfer of car borne noises through material???????? I would LOVE to hear from people that have REAL EXPERIENCES and not just opinions. The last one was put on the list BC my box seems to transfer trunk noise in to the cabin more. (sealed trunk, forward facing)

I love weed.

The Box Looks good, you are defeinetly someone others here could get insipration from.

what kind ATV you speak of? My wife has a Yamaha 660 Grizzly and I am riding a Honda TRX300, The Yami is a BMF but I like the low center of gravity and maunal shifting on my Honda. (maybe some pics )

The Mid-bass shall be EPIC!!!!!

thats alot of posts.

The ATV ride was gOod. Always a nice break from the everyday.

ATV TOP.

YeaH!!!!!! Tis the season to to go ATVing!!!And I got the day off too, So off I go!!!!

thats to big, the fuse will be the last thing to burn up. Either match the fuse to the wire size as the "MAX" or match the equipment on end of the wire as the "MIN" size.

I wouldn't worry about it on a factory alternator, BUT if you feel safer installing one then I would fuse to what the alternator is rated.

I never have fused mine, always factory alts, but others do. I would say fuse to the amperage of your alt and or size wire. Like OldSkool said, Don't worry about a fuse if you only have a factory alternator and factory battery. I ONLY recommend a fuse if its a HO alternator, and the fuse is there to protect your investment if something go's wrong. some HO alternators put out alot of amps. BTW Its still not nessacery even with a HO, just another safety measure for ppl that like overkill.(like me)

Yes, on the carpet. I would atleast give it a listen, If it sounds the best then who cares where they are at. Right? That close to you will require you to move the jumpers down to like -6 or -7 on the crossover before they will sound good. I listen after i move the jumper, If the tweeter is still to loud, move it again, once you hear the 6.5's over the tweeters move the jumper back up +1 until you find the sweet spot and call it good.

I have everything I need to finish my doors and dash, other than time. Today I got a little time so I started on one of the doors. First I installed butryl rope inbetween the outer door skin and the cross support tubes inside the door, there was some here factory but not very much, the drivers door is even worse. Here is the before pic.... and heres with the rope installed. then I did a layer of Damplifier Pro inside the door on the outer door skin. Here is an inside the door view. Next I used some 12ga aluminum I had laying around to cover the holes in the inner door skin. heres a side view of the aluminum plate. Heres a pic of the whole door with the holes covered. A close up of the back piece. This is the front part of the door, you can see the foam tape I wrapperd the wires inside the door with, you can also see the rubber hose I used to cover the sharp edges. Then I covered the inner skin with the Damplifier Pro. I rolled the damplifier into the new speaker hole SO theres NO sharp edges. Next I will install a layer of Luxury Liner Pro and then the door panel and door pods!!!!!!

I finally got to work on the doors today!!!!!! pics in a few, stay tuned.