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Everything posted by j-roadtatts
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From the album: honda doors
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From the album: honda doors
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From the album: honda doors
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From the album: honda doors
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From the album: honda doors
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From the album: honda doors
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From the album: honda doors
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From the album: honda doors
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Horray!!!!! The doors are Done Done!!!!! They SO SEXY!!!!! oh, done other than the right signal.lol. I am starting on the high's amp wiring now and then......
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If anybody needs me I will be outside bolting in my 10" Aura drivers!!!! Hum, I MIGHT take a picture when I'm done?
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SWEET!!! I can't wait to see the custom HEAVY DUTY interior,hehe.
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I don't know what drivers Sean is going to recommend checking out, But I do have a suggestion on the amp. I was checking out the MB Quarts amp you already have and seen how affordable the are and that they come in in few other sizes. If I was you I would just plan on buying another amp from the same family for your highs. I seen they had a DSC280 and a 4x80, both for dirt cheap right now. How do you like the DSC4125? I might have to buy one for another project I have going, after seing the price to watt comparision on the MB's.
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Hurry up and build them doors already.lol. I can't wait to see some more pictures. I love the electronics tackle box, I have a couple myself.
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Thanks for clearing that up Nathan. I too agree that an HO alternator is a better first investment over a bigger or dual batterys for a car thats not competing.
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X2 ^ but still unfortunate when anyone feels ripped off regardless of the company.
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What would be the most important factors involved in the installation of the line array that "will make or break things"? So as long as the drivers are as vertical as possible in the line array, then the SQ will be there? this is the caveat that will "make or break" if its SQ I assume.
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What would be the most important factors involved in the installation of the line array that "will make or break things"?
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Good placement, now you just need an image on the inside of your forearm and some background and you'll have a half sleeve,hehe.
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I am a member on the fiberglass forum also, There is ALOT of good info and ideas over there. Those guys over there aren't afraid to take a car apart either.
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Well I searched the web via Google and the uphostery guys said to use the high temp 3m glue, as the temp is what makes the regular 3m super 77 let go. I found this 3m high temp glue so I will be buying some for the rest of the pods. Especially for the dash pods, because they will see alot of temperature changes. http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=MMM08090_0006436287
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Hey Sean, I know the kid was long winded in his post BUT he did state he was changing the output goal in exchange for SQ. I will definetly agree with the listening to more kinds of music because they sounded better.
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So up the a-pillar or stacked in the door are both exceptable mounting options for the line array? if up the apillar, do they need to be mounted plum or can they follow the slope of the pillar? I was unsure about the 2" dome, but definetly seem to learn quicker by being corrected, So I stand corrected.
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Thanks for all the LOVE guys!!! I can't wait to have the front stage installed, BUT I am incapable of hurrying. I am using the 3M super 77 glue on the vinyl, which works pretty good but I wonder if there is something out there thats better for my application? Does ANYONE know of a better glue with higher bonding strenght than the 77?????
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I would LOVE to see a line array of 2"er's done, I just didn't have the room in my small car. I do on the other hand plan on doing a line array in a future vehicle. My question to you Sean is, What would be the correct placement of the line array? i.e. flat across the dash, stacked up the a-pillar, along the sun visors, on the doors? LIke I said in the other topic, IF the 3" full ranger doesn't make me happy with output, I will use the Dayton 2"dome. Hey NCSU, What do you think of the 2" Dayton dome?