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j-roadtatts

SSA Supporter L2
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Everything posted by j-roadtatts

  1. j-roadtatts

    Dan208's simple little system.

    Clean and simple, I like it!! Looks like you got bit by the audio bug already though........
  2. j-roadtatts

    BanginGMC's Build Log | The Rebuild

    I got my eye out, bring on the pics.lol. Sounds like you finally made up your mind on the sub stage!!! I can't wait to see the progress. How are the type-r's treating you? Are you still interested in the aiming rings for the 6.5's? I didn't forget about ya, I've just been busy.
  3. j-roadtatts

    95 Eclipse Father/Son Project

    The rear bumpa' looks clean. The tower style amps are interesting, I can think of all kinds of different ways to mount them. ALMOST time to start enjoying the car!!!!!
  4. j-roadtatts

    Help choosing a 10 inch midbass driver.

    Sounds like I am clear for take off with the 12"s. ( I just wanted to know its limits) I got the first sheet of 3/4" birch cut and mounted to one door today. (pics coming) That MoFo is already WAAAAAAY more solid!!! I am fairly happy with the 3", but would like to add a tweeter for the top. I understand that this doesn't need to be a fancy or expensive tweeter. What frequency should I plan on crossing the tweeter at? Do I need to bandpass the 3"? I don't think the 3" is audible at or above 12khz, but I could be wrong. Any suggestions for a tweeter?
  5. j-roadtatts

    damplifier pro to seal a door???

    I think any holes smaller than a couple inches would be fine. Any bigger than that will start to have diminishing returns.
  6. j-roadtatts

    Welcome to the IHoP

    Hey MKader, Did you go shopping for a backpack yet?
  7. j-roadtatts

    Welcome to the IHoP

    LOL Peng. You always keep me laughin'!!!
  8. j-roadtatts

    battery question?

    Just make sure it is a sealed battery if you are going to be mounting it in the trunk/passanger compartment, as a lead batt will vent toxic gases as its being charged. Which is bad.
  9. The Wall looks sickly!! Good job on kickin' its ass overdrive style!! That Stang is gonna hurt somebodys, Hehe.
  10. j-roadtatts

    The Nightshade Caddy

    I like the 4th order areo port idea. will be great for that car. I can't be of any help on the design end unfortunetly, but will be following along to learn.
  11. j-roadtatts

    1997 honda accord build log

    yeah thats what im doing i just have to find a place where i can drill in to Preferably at the rear of the trunk, where you can put one arm in the trunk and one under the car to hold the wrench.
  12. j-roadtatts

    Ulrisa's Volvo S40 Build

    Good luck with the vinyl the next time around, PM me if you need some tips.
  13. j-roadtatts

    Help choosing a 10 inch midbass driver.

    I have One more question I should bring up while we are disussing the Aura's reach. IF I switch the 3" full ranger out for a tweeter in the future,( say something like the Scan Speak 6020-10) for more output. What is the highest I can get the 10 and 12 to play???
  14. j-roadtatts

    Welcome to the IHoP

    Thats funny shit. about 10 years ago I was riding around with a guy in a 86' Chevy C20 and the pedal dropped. When we pulled the front tire we found the the brake pad plate had worn clean through to the vents and had completely seperated what was left of the disk from the hub. The even funnier thing was the stupid MF knew it was going to happen and had all the parts in the truck. Needless to say we did a brake job right there. I just got a truck from my mom that she was selling to a guy and had to reposess. (94' F-250, 4x4) Needless to say that stupid MF ran the front pads to nothing and turned a 20 dollar set of pads into a 300 dollar brake job. there is definetly some stupid people out there.....
  15. j-roadtatts

    Help choosing a 10 inch midbass driver.

    Thanks again for the equation (you posted it in on page one), I have used it a many time already. The Aura's don't give an inductance value (Le), but I assume from the posted FR gragh being reasonable flat up to around 2khz (big spike around 2.2khz) that they should be good to my where I am asking them to play. I tryed understanding the beaming concept when we discussed it in the "Audio Terminology" thread, but as you and Sean already explained, it's not that straight forward. I guess if you want to give me the equation I will try to understand it. Otherwise I am waiting for Sean's FINAL word on if I should run the 12". My other obvious option is to mount the 10 in one door and the 12 in the other and test that way, which I am also planning on doing anyways if I keep going the 12 route. ( I have one of each at this point) I am currently cutting and test fitting a sheet of 1/2" for the starter layer in the new door panels. I will build up layers of 3/4" to my final depth and so on..... I am now planning on using Birch ply for the door construction, unless there is any objections? I will start posting pics of the new door build soon.
  16. j-roadtatts

    My Nissan Frontier Build

    The box looks good!! Hurry up and get that thing installed already.
  17. j-roadtatts

    Welcome to the IHoP

    Amen to you honey.
  18. j-roadtatts

    Welcome to the IHoP

    If it comes in king I'll do it now in the current bedroom! Wife might not like that too much..... I hope you have tall ceilings.....
  19. j-roadtatts

    1997 honda accord build log

    hey did you like your type r components. the sub seems to over power the type s's and im thinking about upgrading to those next. what amp did you use for them to? I still love my type-r's. The tweeters and 6.5 both did best on-axis. They like power so I was feeding them 100 watts each. I was using the MRP-F600. what does on-axis mean? on-axis refers to the speaker being mounted pointing directly at your ear. You don't really need to worry about on-axis mounting, just a point I was bringing it up. What I would worry about is that the speakers are mounted super solid in your door. I suggest you mount an MDF ring inbetween the door metal and speaker to decouple(seperate) the two, this will help the speaker work to its full potental and not resonate(unwanted vibration) as easy. Then get an amp and it will make all the difference in output. As far as a good ground point, I recommend drilling a hole in the trunk floor and bolting the ground wire to the trunk floor with a lock nut on the under side. (sandwich the floor)
  20. j-roadtatts

    BL seal with passive radiator?

    You da' man Nick!! I love my FI!!
  21. j-roadtatts

    Welcome to the IHoP

    I use Faber-Castell and Micron brand pens at work for stencils.
  22. j-roadtatts

    Help choosing a 10 inch midbass driver.

    I plan on crossing them @ 400hz with a 12db slope or steeper on top and 63 or 80hz down low with a 12db slope or steeper.
  23. j-roadtatts

    Help choosing a 10 inch midbass driver.

    WOW, I jizzed myself on the way to work today. I did some temp bracing against the door, and WOW I found what I have missing!!! I will be buying a sheet of 1/2" and 3/4" MDF tomarrow and start building the NEW doors. Why the hell did Solen send me the wrong speaker and fucking tempt me??????? I am still debating on the 10"s or the 12"s and am hoping Sean and Brad will chime in and help the young bull.
  24. j-roadtatts

    Mr. Bojangles 06 Tahoe Build Log (Six sa-10s)

    No...At least not that I know of. Maybe it's burried in the bottom of the box.. You could only hope, the one they sent was even a green stripe.
  25. j-roadtatts

    Hello

    Welcome to SSA!! Your in the right place to learn.
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