j-roadtatts

I need to get the W a hand gun.

Sweet job on the port!! keep up the killer work.

Pull the plug and tell me what it looks like. I pulled the new plug, and its seems pretty dirty to me already. Yes I did rebuild the carb, and all that seemed to look bad to me was the seat inlet, which i replaced. It did seem a little strong on the gas smell when i took the spark plug out today, before i started it again. But after I ran it the smell wasn't to bad. It also seems like to me that the mower is getting pretty hot fast. Could a bad prime bubble cause to much gas to get into the engine? Cuz the prime bubble is never really firm well yesterday i took the carb off again and noticed a little debris in the bowl. So i am soaking the carb in cleaner to help. Also i plan on taking the gas tank off today and draining the gas, and cleaning it. Sounds like you found the problem. Get rid of the debris and you should be solid. As I said before, 9 times out of 10 is just crap in the float bowl thats holding the needle open.

Tuesday for ME.....

Pull the plug and tell me what it looks like. I pulled the new plug, and its seems pretty dirty to me already. Yes I did rebuild the carb, and all that seemed to look bad to me was the seat inlet, which i replaced. It did seem a little strong on the gas smell when i took the spark plug out today, before i started it again. But after I ran it the smell wasn't to bad. It also seems like to me that the mower is getting pretty hot fast. Could a bad prime bubble cause to much gas to get into the engine? Cuz the prime bubble is never really firm 1)If the carb has a float, than the tang could be out of adjustment. The tang is the little tab that pushes the needle valve shut when the float rises. 2)there is a small spec of dirt thats holding the needle from fully seating. 3) I am unsure about the prime bubble, but would assume you don't want air leaks from the bubble.

cda-117 + pxa-h100=cda-9887. Both will do imprint with thw added mic, cd and a laptop.

I always saw the IMPRINT stuff as something completely worthless? Like extra bells and whistles. I really dont see myself spending $250 on it. Doesnt the 9887 hold enough options to make the car sound the way you want it? Never really tried it, but to me is like comparing an Intel Extreme series CPU, $500 more for the unlocked multiplier, which might take you further, but definitely not worth extra $500 unless you really have money to burn. The Pxa-h100 will give you 3-way crossover if you add it to the 117. I bought my H100 for like 100 bucks. The imprint is a whole different feature all together, that you must have the calibration mic to use, but is not neccesary.

That was the #1 goal. Thats the best way to get peoples attention.

You don't start living until your 30!!!! Welcome to the club.

Tune your box at around 30hz as suggested by the MAN.

Fact is stranger than fiction.....

The 9886 does NOT have any of these features without the Pxa-h100 installed ALSO. You can add the Pxa-h100 to the 117 if you decide you need these features in the future. The 9887 has the 3-way processor built in. The 117 may have a few features built into it that the 9886 doesn't have, So for your goals I would say go with the 117.

You know I love dogs Arron. I would of done it for free. The lady brought the dog to me a few weeks earlier and asked me IF I could do the procedure without the Vet? I said NO WAY, hard enough tattooing peoples eye lids.

The Vets office charged the owner like 400-500 dollars for the whole procedure. I was payed through the shop I work for. I think I was payed my regular wage. We do this procedure on horses more offen, as I live in the Aspen valley where all the rich fuks have horse ranches. I do tattoos all over the body, BUT I have no intrest in injecting ink into someones eye ball with a hypodemic needle.

Day late, I was outta town. Happy Birthday!!!

Try gluing the cross supports as you already thought of. I don't think you will need to clamp, just brace them in place until the glue drys. Otherwise I recommend about 4 layers of dampener mat. The fiberglass will not stick to the metal for long, the first temperature change and the fiberglass will seperate due to different rates of contraction/expansion.

Yep, used primer before painting. Six coats of primer to be precise, with sanding, before, during and after each coat. Before the paint the primer had a better finish than the paint does right now. I talked to my body and paint guru today and he said it could very well be the high humidity causing me the problems. So now I'm not sure what to do. I don't know anyone with a climate controlled paint booth to use for a bit so I'm stuck now. If I did lay down a coat of clear to attempt to seal the box better I would sand and rough it like any slick surface before painting over it. I know that it doesn't stick to slick glossy surfaces. I'm looking up more information on how humidity affects the paint. If it indeed looks to be the root of my problem I'll most likely HAVE to sand the color off and start it over again. Maybe add paint reducer/excelerator to speed the drying.

Did you rebuild the carb? Sounds like your fuel ratio is to high. Does the plug smell like gas when you pull it out?

I am no painter, nor do I even enjoy it, but I will give my thoughts. The enamel primer should of sealed the MDF. Are you using a spray gun for the green? Is the paint fresh or is it leftovers that have been sitting?

Woman!!! She's worth every penny.

Whats the best way to paste a video? I assume start a you tube account. I just did the A B comparision between the 10 and 12, and the 12 wins hands down on all fronts. SO commence with the build!!!!! I am ordering another 12 here directly!!! I already have a stash of Damplifier (30 sq or so) SO I am good there.

VERY innteresting, I did not know this about crossover points.

I have learned a boat load about tuning and installation lately And the 12" is gonna take every bit of it. I won't forget the pics, I know ya' all are picture whores.