j-roadtatts

Music is dynamic and will not be pulling the full wattage continuously.

Pictures?????

I think alot will depend on your personal listening habits. All you can do is keep upgrading/adding/testing with your system to really know for sure. Just remember to plan ahead as necessary.

How do you recommend I brace these in place? Blocks, wedges, shims or any other method neccesary, the bracinging is only temporary until the glue drys.

Will a 320 amp alternator be able to handle the (2) SAZ-3500, with (2) XS Power D3100s, OR will i need two more D3100s? I'd go for 2 more batts for sure you need a buffer to suply current in peaks its not a constant... don't be so affraid of a little voltage drop , with 320Amps you'll be just fine eventhough the amps will draw more at times X2 and +1 Well said BASSmaster.

A shot of the fleabay wire Impious is refering to on the left. The right side is the Knu Knoncepts CCA. (which isn't much better)

Heres the update of the last weeks work. I spent most of the week listening for resonations in the door and correcting them. I am making sure the driver is mounted solid before proceeding, since this was MOST of the cause for the other drivers death. A quick A B comparison of the 10 and 12, who do you think won? Heres the 10"...... And the 12".... Since the biggest goal is making the door solid I started with 3/4" birch and bolted that as heavily as possible. Da' fasteners's.... Me assholes and elbows...... And another assholes and, hey wait wheres the elbows..... I added several bolts since this pic...... bolt shot.... A sandwiched the LLP as a big gasket between the metal and ply..... and with the door shut.... Next I trimed the rest of the LLP off that wasn't under the ply and started layering Damplifier and Damp Pro in the most troubled areas. Also note more bolts where possible..... This is a GREAT time to make sure the window and door opener still function. VERY IMPORTANT. The biggest trouble spot was along the top edge of the door skins, due to no support in that area with the bigg span. Most areas along the top inner and outer skins are up to 4 layers to control the 12" released energy..... Back to the door panel....... gettin' ready to chop some more... And after surgery... And test fitting... And another angle, This is 2 full layers of 3/4" and 3 rings stacked on that so 5 layers deep at the driver. And another angle.... and another.... There will be one more beauty ring on the stack.... And ashot of where the switch will be. I will be rabbiting in a shelf to mount the switches in, and also do a few more cross supports under the plastic. Then the plan is to permanetly attact the panel to the door and fill it with expanding foam and fiberglass inplace. So this week I have pretty much stopped the panel resonation and can NOW hear what the driver is doing!!!!! My next step is to glue ALL the birch layers together for a lamination effect, brace the plastic, fill with foam, fiberglass and so on.......SO stay tuned.

DUDE, You guys kick serious ass on the wiring!!! :fing34: Makes me jealous, that shit is CLEEEEAN!!!

Awesome article!! I bet you are lovin' that car!!!!!!!! We are pretty good at going straight to the pics, Hehe. Thanks for the awnser on the grill. Atleast now I have another style to look for, cause Finding a DeeP DisH 12" mesh grill is proving difficult. Plus the one you have looks solid.

What you are failing to understand is that an active setup takes some sort of processing, wheather its built into the deck (9887, 117+h100, etc), a stand alone unit (3.sixty.2, Ms8, etc) or built into the amp(any amp with the right options to get the job done). The audio signal MUST be processed (crossed over) before it gets to the speakers to give them the right audio signal, understand?

Don't waste your money on cheap audio wire (its a joke), for the same price you can get welding cable that as good as the expensive audio wire.

Mechman is another company you could call. http://mechman.com/store/index.php/cPath/937 Otherwise make your own baby.