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Everything posted by j-roadtatts
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Broken case on 250XP. New Design in the works?
j-roadtatts replied to j-roadtatts's topic in DC Power Engineering
I have not, but have the tools. Definetly, and with a correctly designed bracket and case the only thing overtightening will do is burn out you bearings. -
Broken case on 250XP. New Design in the works?
j-roadtatts replied to j-roadtatts's topic in DC Power Engineering
A bigger gusset that mimics the OEM one would be ideal. But would require rolling the gusset plate to the arch of the DC bracket and welding on the bottom, the DC bracket may need to be alittle wider to pull this off. Would also need a drain hole of course. -
Dude, I am loving the box!! You are gonna wish you started with a car without a sunroof though.LOL. The only rattle I just can't kill. LoOking forward to more progress pics.
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Broken case on 250XP. New Design in the works?
j-roadtatts replied to j-roadtatts's topic in DC Power Engineering
This is where a gusset should be. -
Broken case on 250XP. New Design in the works?
j-roadtatts replied to j-roadtatts's topic in DC Power Engineering
Thanks for the input DarkTinman and Rainman215. I think the lower backet could use a gusset. This would eliminate alot of the movement. I would think Rob would agree as he claims this is the only car these cases are breaking on. I am still waiting to see the new case design. BUT plan on welding a gusset into the corner of the lower bracket anyways, as I am tired of swapping alternators in and out, plus the waste of shipping costs. -
Oh My, I just found out they have hand made small batch beers too!! These all look tasty. http://www.breckbrew.com/beer/smallbatch.html
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Why not just mold it in two pieces, would be alot cleaner.
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What's the biggest tires you feel comfortable running with 4.10's ? And I can't figure out how 90% of the 4x4 owners here don't believe in re-gearing. 'OMG, you can't run 33's, you won't have power.' Idiots..that's what re-gearing is for. Some numbnutz even installed lower gears for extra 'wheel speed' and wondered why his Toyota was sluggish. 35" tires tops with the 4.10's, and the enemic 2.1 low on the NP205. I would love to do a Lo-max kit on the tranfer case, makiing it 4.1 low. I would probably do 4.88's for the 39-40" range. I am not into rock crawling though, more just a trail rig. Although the trails here are very rocky with the occasional wall climb. LMAO at the "sluggish" comment.
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Heres a link to the site, if you want to check out their stuff for ideas. http://diy4x.com/ And of course I have to mention these guys as they are located 10 minutes from my house. http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog.htm
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The Razorback cover is 3/8" steel plate, so the ribs problably aren't necessary. The front is where I really need one of these, as the d60 is huge and I would hate to destroy its internals on a rock. Time for bigger tires. It didn't look that thick from this angle Theres a clip on youtube, some rednecks trashing a buggy with a D60 front, the amount of abuse it got was absurd. I hope you are going for 37+ I would love to do some 39"-40" meats, but will need to re-gear at the same time, as I am only rocking 4.10's right now.
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I was actually looking at Rockwells the other day. $500 for a rear Rockwell sounds like a steal If you want to run 44"+ tires, without breaking things, you can't go wrong with the Rockwells. Plus the top loader centers are killer for raising teh shaft.
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This is the Brewpub across from my hotel tonght. I am thinking the Pandora's Bock sounds tasty, or maybe the Vanilla Porter. http://www.breckbrew...r/ourbeers.html
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Anybody watch the Winter X games yesterday?
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Ah, its new. That's why. Looks like a knock off and considering there is nothing proprietary about ceramic I don't see why that is a negative. + it is almost half the price of a BGE. I will have to keep an eye out for these. Yup, they're basically a Chinese made BGE clone; played with a floor model at Lowe's a while back Quoted from the website, admiting that they are selling you junk.lol <P style="MARGIN: 0px 20px">From a customer: My firebox cracked. What should I do? First of all let us start out with a photo of my firebox. See how it has broken into 3 pieces. This is how it has been for two and a half years. There is no reason to remove it from the egg very often, but I have pulled it out here to show you how completely broken it is, yet it works just as well as a brand new firebox: A cracked/broken firebox. Almost everyone has had their firebox crack and break. While this probably shouldn't be called "normal", it is actually normal. What we all have found is that the firebox will continue to work just fine when cracked or broken. Owners have used their Grills for several years with cracked and broken fireboxes, so there is nothing wrong with continuing to use yours. You don't need a replacement firebox, as the current one will not cause any problems and will continue to work. As I have already said, the cracked and broken fireboxes work perfectly well. It is important to note that today's fireboxes crack and break, but the DO NOT disintegrate or crumble to dust. Once they crack or break, and the stress is relieved, they will probably crack no more and break no more. We are working on a fire box with a slit so it can take the stress of expansion and contraction better. Well, guess what you have when your firebox cracks and breaks? A multi-part firebox! Once your firebox looks like mine, it will probably provide good service for the rest of your life.
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The Razorback cover is 3/8" steel plate, so the ribs problably aren't necessary. The front is where I really need one of these, as the d60 is huge and I would hate to destroy its internals on a rock. Time for bigger tires.
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The other advantage of the 14b is the threaded carrier preload adjusters, instead of shims. The Detroit was the only locker available for the 14b when I did mine. Being a full size rig, the Detroit has pretty good road manners for me. I would love to do a selectable in my front d60 thought. Besides being a huge chunk of metal which is hard to hurt ARB, OX make selectables for the D60 but they are all expensive The 14b is a great axle for abuse. I ditched the drum brakes for disks, and shaved the inch lip off the bottom of pumkin, added locker and she was ready. I would like to buy or build one of these too. One ton axles are nice but parts are expensive.
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The other advantage of the 14b is the threaded carrier preload adjusters, instead of shims. The Detroit was the only locker available for the 14b when I did mine. Being a full size rig, the Detroit has pretty good road manners for me. I would love to do a selectable in my front d60 thought.
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Don't forget to take pics ! Definetly. Seeing your salt mine pics makes me want to breakout my pics from my trip to Carlsbad Caverns last year.
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Did you ever check to make sure the valve stem wasn't to blame? Like I explained before. Lincoln locker FTW. Haven't had time for in-depth checks For the last month, all my free time was spent working. Even the short off-road drive today was to check a road that I need to clear tomorrow with the backhoe. Yeah, Lincoln locker FTW offroad....on the street FTL. I've ridden in a car with a lunchbox locker, it felt just like it was Lincoln locked. LIke I said before, when my tire was doing this it was a small split where the stem go's through the rim. You should be able to bend it over by hand and tell real quick. My 14bolt was easy to lock up with the Detroit, but only because it re-used the factory carrier and all I had to do was re-set the backlash. A D44 would be perfect for your rig, good luck finding one.
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The Beef Brisket came out OK. I ended up cooking it for 24 hours at 225F to get the collagen to melt.
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These pics are awesome Adrian. I love being underground. Thanks for sharing.
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I am heading the other direction from ASSpen for the weekend. I am going to Breakenridge for the International Snow Sculpting Championships.
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The X-Games being right up the road in ASSpen sure makes for a ton of people.
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Did you ever check to make sure the valve stem wasn't to blame? Like I explained before. Lincoln locker FTW.
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Theres only one way to learn and find out. Hook them up and see what you hear, would help if you had them in a sealed test box also. The sealed box will mimic the alignment you will have in a sealed door closest. Midbass is a hard one to really put a set freq range on, especially in a car. I have my midbasses set at 20-630hz right now, but have ran them as narrow as 50-250hz. So the point is, Its more about acoustic coupling to the other drivers in the car you are using them with, then just a set range.