j-roadtatts

It usually takes a couple weeks to condition your body to new exercises. Get through the first two weeks and it will be a whole new game.

You can test your current sensors with a DMM to see if they are bad before wasting money on new ones. If the sensors test good then its something in the path of the signal. I had a car that filled the plug holes with oil like that too. LOL shit didn't think of that. too late i bought the sensor. but i measured all three (replacements and original). but i got some weird shit.. there are 3 pins; signal, power, and low. the original and first replacement i bought have the same values when measured. the newest one has different values. (all in the mega ohm range) i haven't found the correct values yet. maybe i'm not searching for the right information. i could assume that the original and first replacement are both bad, and the newest is fine. however, i dont have a scan tool to clear the code. right now im trying to clear it by disconnecting the battery. i have access to a shitty manual from alldatadiy.com, it suggests that disconnecting the battery is not the correct way to clear that code and that it might not actually clear it. edit: all three cam sensors have the last 4 digits of the oem part number on plastic part. edit2: reconnected the battery after ~30 min, turned key to "on" position and still had a ses light. drove afew miles, no change. what do you guys think of the sensor resistance differences of the 3 sensors? 2 same, 1 different... assuming the sensor is good, wiring would be the next issue to work out? should i make a new run of wire back to the pcm or just replace the plug? i figure i could start by replacing the plug first. http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm_ckp_3.8L/test_ckp_sensor_1.php This will explain why each sensor had different readings and how to test the whole system, not just the sensor. As far as getting the light to shut off a few websites say the ODBll tester is the only way. As far as the computer recalibrating by driving, most ECU's/ECM's recalibrate around every 50 miles of driving. So either get your buddy to clear the code with his tool or drive 50 plus miles and see what happens. If you follow the test instuctions in the link you should have it figured out.

Got can goods?

I personally have this book, but its published around 2000 so may or may not have what you need to know.

SWEET!! I would love to see a pic of the finished product.

You can test your current sensors with a DMM to see if they are bad before wasting money on new ones. If the sensors test good then its something in the path of the signal. I had a car that filled the plug holes with oil like that too. LOL shit didn't think of that. too late i bought the sensor. but i measured all three (replacements and original). but i got some weird shit.. there are 3 pins; signal, power, and low. the original and first replacement i bought have the same values when measured. the newest one has different values. (all in the mega ohm range) i haven't found the correct values yet. maybe i'm not searching for the right information. i could assume that the original and first replacement are both bad, and the newest is fine. however, i dont have a scan tool to clear the code. right now im trying to clear it by disconnecting the battery. i have access to a shitty manual from alldatadiy.com, it suggests that disconnecting the battery is not the correct way to clear that code and that it might not actually clear it. You will most likely have to clear the code with a code reader, disconnecting the battery won't do it. There should be a "assembly data link connecter" either under the hood or under the dash. It will look like a plug with nothing plugged into it. You will want a service manual as it will tell you which terminals to place a jumper in to retrieve the codes. You will also need the manual for proper code interpretation. The manual should also tell you the correct way to clear the ECM.

Signs, signs, everywhere theres signs....

480 volts vs. mouse. Who will win?

The enclosure came out sweet looking. To bad its not what you wanted. My big question is did you fit the 8"s in the front doors?

I will expect pics Duran.

Still one of my favorites. I loved her as an avitar but out of respect for my wife I don't.

You would love the snowmoblie races and jumps at Winter-X games. The video that came on next was steller to watch too.

You can test your current sensors with a DMM to see if they are bad before wasting money on new ones. If the sensors test good then its something in the path of the signal. I had a car that filled the plug holes with oil like that too. LOL

I like ryans way of thinking as far as wrap them and forget about them. As far as wires melting you either need to reroute them or sleeve them. http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=heat%20sleeve&dds=1