j-roadtatts

I fucking hate those You hate everything. They serve the purpose they are intended for.

I assume Nercotizing Fasciitis or Scleroderma. I had a friend die from the latter.

T-nuts bother me when they fall off or when the sub cutout isn't much smaller that the mounting hole diameter. If you want to go deeper, how many times is a sub removed/installed? With all that in mind, I've used T-nuts on the RLi enclosure Drywall screws work great for most install's but heavier subs I prefer a T-nut. It sucks either way if the cutout is to big or screw holes are off center. my subs are 75lb and held up in a wall just fine with spax screws I used them the last few installs as I wanted to use allen head bolts for aesthetics. I have allen head screws also so could of went that route. I usually use blue Loctite either way.

20"+ of snow and still falling. I had to steal the wife's Xterra to drive to work. The city is clearing snow with front loaders.

T-nuts bother me when they fall off or when the sub cutout isn't much smaller that the mounting hole diameter. If you want to go deeper, how many times is a sub removed/installed? With all that in mind, I've used T-nuts on the RLi enclosure Drywall screws work great for most install's but heavier subs I prefer a T-nut. It sucks either way if the cutout is to big or screw holes are off center.

Sharp drywall screw on a screw gun that I have to use force to drive, or a flat smooth bolt I can just thread right in by hand . IDK which one I should pick?

I don't like'em. In the SPL enclosure I use drywall screws. And I've removed/installed the sub over a dozen times, using the same screw holes. Only one stripped the mdf and is no longer useful. I didn't say I liked them. BUT they are a set it and forget it. Plus you can use allen head bolts.

I love me some cinnamon. I rail Highbrow Vapor's Cinnamon 18mg all the time. I must need to try a different cinnamon, I thought it tasted like an air freshener. I was bummed as I like cinnamon flavored foods. I did try the Root Beer and like it. My fave is still the Black Honey Tobacco. I think bc it tastes like the cigars I be puffing in between vaping.

People in Colorado be like

Have you tried firing the subs/port in a different direction? Possibly even firing to the side? As sub frequency's are no directional (and very long waves) you never know what will have the most effect on amplitude. Honestly you shouldn't even need the ski pass open, as sound waves travel through anything thinner than the length of the sound wave. 4th order would work, but most likely would be real peaky sounding and not very tonal. I have a 4th order so can say they are a bitch to setup and require a driver that is designed for such an enclosure.

Would look good bolder. (heavier line weight) Deviant is full of unique artwork. Lots of monogram font's on Google image search. https://www.google.com/search?q=monogram+fonts&rlz=1T4GGHP_enUS453US453&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=QVjqUqSGH4z8yAHA-4HABw&ved=0CCYQsAQ&biw=1120&bih=599 "The hard part is it has to look good on a huge banner, on a small computer window, and in print. I don't know. I think simple is better?" You are spot on, simple is better. The thing that makes a lot of art pop to the eye is what ISN'T there. I don't have PS on my home computer so can't play with the design. As I guess I am the resident artist I am tuned.

Don't let models fool you. That XBL motor will be far more linear than the modeling will show you. That explains the odd modeling as I didn't know it was a XBL design.

T-nut's FTW. http://www.zorotools.com/g/00057017/k-G3381883?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&kw={keyword}&gclid=CKbJhq38pbwCFY8-MgodYyYAiA

Staging is honestly a non-issue as ignorance is bliss. BTW the best sound at a concert is standing next to the sound board guy, NOT the front row. LOL I will touch base on the staging at any time I feel it is pertinent to our purpose though. As far as getting "good" staging out of a 12" mid, the bottom will be the easy part. Get the mids sounding good and blended with the horns with the sub OFF first. Once the front stage sounds acceptable to you turn the sub up slowly until you can localize it and then back it off a notch for your "SQ" setting. As for blending the top end of the mid with the horns I will give ONLY my thoughts on this, as I have NO experience with horns. (so PLEASE correct me if I am wrong in any of this thought process) I would think the horns would be capable of playing at a little lower frequency's at low volumes for your "SQ" setting. From experience of having 12"s that play cleanly well beyond 1k hz, I will say that you will start to notice different frequency responses from the two mids once you start getting much over 500hz, possibly lower. Once again though ignorance may be bliss as you may think they sound great playing upwards of 1-2k hz. Then again a Phase Plug may help with this. 20 years ago I could care less about staging as we would roll around with the back seat pulled out and a sheet of plywood screwed in full of drivers of all sizes and flavors. So I say go for it brother. You will only get more discerning ears with age and can dial things in more as you get the processing and time in. I don't mind modeling for ya, but also want you to understand the hows and whys. As far as driver designs go, its a crazy circle of trade off's. Without breaking out the cookbook, here's an example of the vicious circle. to produce low frequency's requires a stiff cone material to swat the air. That stiff cone weights more so is less efficient as a trade off. The heavier cone requires a stronger motor design(more coil wraps, more spiders, etc), which causes the inductance on the top end everyone speaks of. The other end of that spectrum is a PA driver (which is meant to keep up with horns in large open space's) has a super light cone. The lighter cone of the PA (pro driver) allows for a motor that does not roll off so low on the top. The cool thing these days is company's have really started producing a larger variety of drivers that fall in the middle of this spectrum. (and are geared towards car doors) Speakers are dumb in the sense they only do what we tell them to do through install (enclosure alignment, eq, xover, signal, etc). This is where it gets tricky for modeling purposes of a midbass driver for a door install. In the modeling program we must use a sealed alignment but the door is more of a leaky sealed box. So when modeling the low end, I do four vas values in a sealed alignment, door Vb, x1, x3 and again x10. This will show the low end roll off but is vague in the sense that it is more for reference as the door is neither a true IB or a sealed box. This is where the cabin gain you speak of come's in. Even if the driver models poorer than desired, we know based on the driver design (stiff cone, high BL, etc) that it will play the lows with authority, AND the cabin gain will more than take care of any output concerns down low. Now on to the AE drivers the OP is interested in. The company offers an IB driver geared towards car installs So I modeled that first. http://www.aespeakers.com/drivers.php?driver_id=35 The first graph is the IB driver in a true sealed .75 cu ft enclosure. As you see it bumps up the Qtc. to 1.368. Qtc = Qts* [ ( Vas / Vb ) + 1]^.5 Qtc: Value for the damping provided for a driver in a sealed enclosure. Denotes the enclosures ability to control the driver response at resonance. Qtc = 0.707 is the optimum value for sealed enclosures, providing flattest response and highest SPL for deep bass extension. Enclosures for this value are often rather large. Lower Qtc can give even better transition response, down to a Qtc of 0.577 for the best damping and transients, but the enclosure is usually huge and SPL's are down. A Qtc of 1.0 is a compromise between deep bass and transient response vs. smaller sized enclosure. Larger subs can go with an even higher Qtc, as their resonant frequency is often very low, but Qtc's above 1.5 can begin to sound very muddled and boomy, and sacrifice deep bass extension and transient response for enhanced mid-bass peaks (louder). I would suggest going for a higher Q alignment to try to get more response in the 50-100hz range. ^.75 Vb ^door Vb ^1x VAS ^3x VAS These are the AE IB12AU 4 ohm driver. The first is plotted as if you built a .75 cu ft pod. The second is plotted as if your door was 2.5 cu ft and truly sealed. The third is for a 5.5 cu ft box as that is the equal VAS of the driver. The forth is 3x the drivers VAS. The fifth is 10X the drivers VAS. The forth and fifth are closer to if they were truly IB as in open air with only a baffle and no dampening. Now on to the DX. I got frustrated with the WinISD Alpha Pro so switched to the WinISD.7 Here is the TD12X graghed out for you. http://www.aespeakers.com/drivers.php?driver_id=7 First is a .75 cu ft enclosure. This has a Qtc of .823. This one is in a 2.5 cu ft. (roughly the volume of your door) enclosure and has a Qtc of .536 Again in a 5.65 cu ft enclosure (1xVAS) and has a Qtc of .425 Again in a 17 cu ft enclosure (3xVAS) and has a Qtc of .345 Again in a 56.5 cu ft enclosure (10xVAS) and has a Qtc of .308 The formula Impious gave us will show where the driver starts to roll off on the top end. As the roll off is minor in regards to db loss I take this as just a reference also. Eventually the mechanical noise will become louder than the output though. "A driver's inductance and resistance create a classic 1st order (6db/oct) lowpass crossover. You can determine the corner frequency with the formula." Frequency = Re/(2*Pi*Le) *Le in henries Oddly going by inductance, the DX will start rolling off at 1433hz. And the IB not until over 2500hz. Hopefully Impious can explain how this formula translates into real time. As I have found this formula does NOT correlate with manufactures posted FR graphs. I understand that the coil is part of the circuit just like a coil in a xover. I even remember back in the day, ppl using store bought rolls of wire left on the spool for sub xovers. How acurate it was we will never know. lol

Brilliant! Fuckin' A Cotton, Fuckin' A!!!

The recommended enclosure for .7 Qtc. is .15 cu ft. LOL