j-roadtatts

I see nothing wrong with bracing as that is what car manufactures use for structural integrity. Think about the under side of a hood or trunk lid. See the web of bracing?

Brace the rear deck and it will stop flopping like a fish. If your seat folds down, do as stated above. Other than that possibly having the sub and port on different walls of the enclosure is causing cancellation. Have you tried changing the direction the box is firing in the trunk to see if there is any acoustic difference?

Sounds like you may really enjoy his music. Not his music. Long story short, at the time, had just started dating simply one of the most staggeringly attractive woman I have ever met, off the charts and Neal you have a great idea of what I mean. Anyway, she and her best friend wanted me and the other BF to come to his concert. We couldn't, we had a tournament we were long since apart of we had to be in. The good thing was that we could drive the girls on our way, drop them off at the concert a little early, play in the tournament, and pick them up on the way back. Well, we drop them off, and later that night as we proceed to drive back to what was at the time the MCI Center in DC, we get a text message saying that we didn't need to pick them up. So obviously we ask why. The reply was they were on Kenny Chesney's bus enroute to the next show. So.... you can see why it is not a positive thing for me. If it was someone like Timberlake or Maher, I could understand... OUCH

The pic explains a lot. I have NO sound deadening behind the baffle in my ride, but DO have a continuous barrier in front of the baffle. In other words if you isolate the rear of the car from the passenger camber you should not need to worry about deadening behind the wall.

I RC when time permits which isn't very often. I just gave my whirlybird to a friend as I wanted to see it being used. Still have my 4WD truck. What was the question again? I am done buying nitro methane. I have a Nitro Revo. Question is spend the $$ to convert it to electric or buy and electric. BL of course. Net $$ is about the same which has me leaning towards selling and buying since it then involves no time. I looked the Revo up. That's a badd MFer. I think you answered your own question. As I am sure your time is worth more.

Pfft. Can't find the right one as this is team blueberry, but this is a trailer The guy I worked for snowmobiling had an enclosed trailer with the lift inside. Painted to match his Prevost. We used it more to trailer all of his bikes to Sturgis in the summer.

So you are going to build the wall/box without attaching it to the vehicle?

If you are walling the car you shouldn't need to do the whole car. You can brace any panels behind the wall.

I RC when time permits which isn't very often. I just gave my whirlybird to a friend as I wanted to see it being used. Still have my 4WD truck. What was the question again?

LOVE IT! I am going to have to post a pic of my military bus I converted and lived in for around 5 years.

Randomly and interlocked. Something like this is close to ideal: where none of the spaces are the same. Obviously you won't go that far, but the idea holds.I have to ask.....what is the purpose of bracing like this?This is not something I am at all familiar with.JJ - that is bracing. How else would you do it?The goal of bracing is always the same. Too reduce ANY modal behavior in the acoustic or vibration space that can color sound. A honeycomb structure like the above helps not only mechanically but also acoustically. Obviously at the wavelengths of subs and not mids the structures don't need to be as tiny.Honestly the enclosures I have build have only been for vehicles and usually the port and overall box design braced the box well. I have never built anything for inside the house. J Reminds me of building roll cages. Although no acoustical factors involved, only inertia.

After re-reading this thread I am unsure of your purpose. Are you looking for a barrier as stated in the beginning or are you looking to stop panel resonance? If your building a wall and you are just looking to stop the panel's from resonating, brace the panels with the box and be done with it. If you are looking for a barrier I am curious where in the car are you using it?

This and make sure his mask looks good.

I will leave this here. This guy is about my size and build. Even reminds me of myself other than the bad haircut.

The RockStar's look pimp!

Him and Kenny Chesney. I am more of a George Stait, Randy Travis, Tanya tucker, Bonnie raitt kinda guy when it come's to country. Any particular song or album I should check out of Kenny Chesney's? I just have a lot of his beach music. http://youtu.be/CWZe6YoHYIg Found this jam of his I like. Most of the other stuff I tried had a little slower tempo than I usually am in the mood for. LOVE the bass drop at the beginning! Reminds me of the intro to Holy Diver. His voice is right there in the same range as Tim McGraw.

Here is a good read for you and even has a timbre widget at the bottom of the page to help tune your ear. Cheers. http://www.physicsclassroom.com/class/sound/u11l4d.cfm

I would hook it up if I was there brother. I love doing diagnostics on electrical. Chase in down the line.

SETH I just searched for a quote from you so that you would see this! So I took my mothers 2.5 2003 Nissan Altima (100k miles) in because it was idling rough and would "chug" while driving. They had it for 3 days and could not get it to replicate the problem. I said fine forget it as my Mom had already bought a new car and she was just going to cut her losses and she was going to sell it. I couldn't pick it up that day and the next day I get a call that they tried to back it out of the garage and it "blew up" it made a loud sound and now it won't start. They said that the 3rd cylinder had low pressure and they didn't want to dig any deeper without permission. They said that it may have "jumped the timing chain" and that it could be an easy fix or that "the engine might need to be replaced". This car has been meticulously maintained by these idiots but I just have a hard time believing that this engine is truly done. Is there anything that you can suggest without having your hands on it? This place seems to be incompetent but they are not trying to charge to fix anything so I do not know what to make of the situation. If you can suggest anything I'd appreciate it. We are basically looking for the best way to get rid of it financially. Basically if it were your car and you couldn't work on it yourself what would you do? We had an offer of $750 for it but it has $500 dollars worth of brand new rubber on it, and the kbb value is about 4.5k in poor condition. Should we attempt to repair and sell it, or should we just sell it as a "mechanics special"? If we try to sell it what should we expect? I completely understand if you can't give a definitive answer, I'm just looking for a ballpark. I'd get the issue looked into by a competent mechanic before selling it. It is doubtful that it is a mechanical issue, by the sounds of things. On a Nissan I would be more inclined to believe an injector failure. Odds are they tried throwing coils and plugs on it and it didn't work. Nissans are notorious for injector issues. I agree with Seth that is more likely something non mechanical, like an injector or bad sensor somewhere sending faulty signals to the ECM. Lazy mechanics don't want anything to do with electrical gremlins. I have repaired and sold many electric gremlin cars that I got for free. Have you retrieved any code's from the ECM? Try resetting the ECM and see if it has any effect. When an ECM is reset it will run in limp (default) mode for X amount of mile's (usaully around 50mi) until the ECM has collected enough data to recalibrate. To reset the ECM disconnect the battery cables and hold the cable ends together. This will discharge any power stored in the ECM and clear all collected data. Make sure to retrieve any codes before discharging. Some code's are false in the sense that they point you in the right direction, but not always the actual sensor.

Now that's a lot of torque!!!! I can see where you got your eye for the industrial look you incorporate into your audio builds. As we are all pic whore's, thanks for the pics.

You are WAAAY over thinking it. There are KEY CONTROL POINTS that dictate how to pick a driver. Can it play the range you intend to use? Will it work in your alignment? Do you have the processing to deal with any cone breakups if they are in your intended range? It's that simple. The purpose of the graph's is to show you how the enclosure volume effects the Qtc value. RE-RE-read my paragraphs before the graph's. All drivers are going plot relatively close to this. I have done actual testing with different size boxes to understand this in real time. The results are simple, a super small sealed box will force the driver to peak before rolling off. IB and/or larger sealed box will roll off more naturally, which is generally a good thing for SQ as you don't want peaks in the FR. I say generally bc you can use box size to bump up a weak low end without the need for more power. YOU will have to test this to decide, and I would suggest it before even touching the door. ALL instruments including the human voice reach over a broad range of octaves. There is the fundamental sound and then the 2nd, 3rd, 4th harmonics. As far as staging lets use drums for an example. If you where standing right in front of the drummer you would have a single point sound source. Now listen to the drummer on a recording with all speakers in front of you (computer, home stereo) and you will note that the multiple speakers being grouped together still have the same sound. Then listen to the same recording in you car where the speakers are not grouped together and you will recognize the different octaves not in phase. The different octave's arrival to your ear is only off by milliseconds, but that's enough to ruin the single point source sound as far as your brain is concerned. Now if you have multiple sources of the same octave from different directions it will cause cancellation or reverberation if not in phase. I call this the "Wal-Mart" sound. This is ALSO a bad thing as far as your brain is concerned as it will cause listener fatigue. As your brain is trying to align the sounds and will grow tired quickly causing your brain to zone out the music all together. Your ear is only a sensor, your brain is what does the processing. This video is deceiving in that they overlayed the song to align with the speakers movement. It does however give you a grasp of how the acoustic coupling of the drivers should be seemless.

Him and Kenny Chesney. I am more of a George Stait, Randy Travis, Tanya tucker, Bonnie raitt kinda guy when it come's to country. Any particular song or album I should check out of Kenny Chesney's?

Him and Kenny Chesney. I am more of a George Stait, Randy Travis, Tanya tucker, Bonnie raitt kinda guy when it come's to country.

Perfect day to throw on some Jimmy Buffett and just chill.