j-roadtatts

I will give the one I linked a try. Can't see going wrong. Usually the local market has a great selection but was disappointed when I got some a few weeks ago.

This one has the some EVIL artwork. VERY crisp. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=JYdJZgkJ9SI

More technical thrash metal!!!

I am excited for you!!! Can't wait to see the finished product.

This is the site I am looking at. http://www.fishex.com/fish-market/crab/alaskan-king-crab-legs.html?gclid=CNn49Ki5xLwCFY07MgodGDoAZw

Rather easy to make...Normally I prefer nuts on whiter fish, but ahi is good with anythign You just reminded me I want to order some King crab for the W for V day. The site's I looked at had overnight shipping from Alaska. Any company you have personally used or would suggest? I am a huge fan of Bristol Bay legs. Only frozen ONCE and it is on the boat. Link please.

Rather easy to make...Normally I prefer nuts on whiter fish, but ahi is good with anythign You just reminded me I want to order some King crab for the W for V day. The site's I looked at had overnight shipping from Alaska. Any company you have personally used or would suggest?

I use insulated banana clips on my power panel. They do alright but would probably look for something that has a little more positive engagement if I planned on plugging and unplugging allot. Something like this perhaps. http://www.discountskitubesandgear.com.au/products/boat-accessories/deck-cabin-accessories-fittings/weatherproof-electrical-connector-single-wire-marine/

You would love my job. I get paid to grope bitches and put them in pain. Don't know how you do it, you must really love your wife. I am a man of honor. That is how I do it.

Good choice on the ViAir compressor. Those things are beasts.

You mean those chrome screws with the matching back plates ?? I assume the interior trim already has the dimples where the screws are so wouldn't think you would need the back plate. Stainless steel screw's would look best IMO.

Warning, if you are faint of heart. Proceed if you LOVE technical metal!!! These guys play locally sometimes.

You would love my job. I get paid to grope bitches and put them in pain.

<Is still dreaming of the macadamia crusted Ahi I have in the Pacific. Reminded me of the brown trout we have here.

Which is why most of my inlaws only eat burger. Conveniently when they butcher a cow/steer that is of the right age that means they don't want the steaks. I know how to help them. Ignorance is bliss for my old man. Me on the other hand, not so much. I am sure he choose the worst cuts to pawn off on us. I couldn't even tell what part it was.

Take it easy on that poor Donk. jk I have already seen the carnage. OHHH now to wait and see whats next!!

Your aren't fucking kidding

This was just a quick google of "2003 Altima retrieve codes". http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-info-reset-ecu-pull-codes-reset-windows-etc-t525400.html Some car's require an OBD style reader but others just require a sequence of events to make the check engine light blink out the codes in a morse code style fashion. If you own an ohm tester you can look in the service manual what the acceptable range of the faulty sensor/injector is. Thank you and Seth for your help, I really appreciate some honest advice from people who aren't going to try to screw me. I bought a bluetooth scanner it should be here soon. It is most likely going to sit for a few weeks until I get some time to mess with it. Good luck. We will be here if you need any more advise.

We had meat from an old milk cow at my dad's last time I ate there. That MFer was tough eating there.

My dad is so frugal we lived on deer and elk meat growing up. The part that made it bad was we had to eat the oldest packages first, which were usually 2-3 yrs old and freezer burnt. That and powered fucking milk. I still like some juicy cow elk meat every once in a while. http://www.elkusa.com/elk_meat.html?gclid=CM6415i5w7wCFedAMgodjFcA7A

This was just a quick google of "2003 Altima retrieve codes". http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-info-reset-ecu-pull-codes-reset-windows-etc-t525400.html Some car's require an OBD style reader but others just require a sequence of events to make the check engine light blink out the codes in a morse code style fashion. If you own an ohm tester you can look in the service manual what the acceptable range of the faulty sensor/injector is.

SETH I just searched for a quote from you so that you would see this! So I took my mothers 2.5 2003 Nissan Altima (100k miles) in because it was idling rough and would "chug" while driving. They had it for 3 days and could not get it to replicate the problem. I said fine forget it as my Mom had already bought a new car and she was just going to cut her losses and she was going to sell it. I couldn't pick it up that day and the next day I get a call that they tried to back it out of the garage and it "blew up" it made a loud sound and now it won't start. They said that the 3rd cylinder had low pressure and they didn't want to dig any deeper without permission. They said that it may have "jumped the timing chain" and that it could be an easy fix or that "the engine might need to be replaced". This car has been meticulously maintained by these idiots but I just have a hard time believing that this engine is truly done. Is there anything that you can suggest without having your hands on it? This place seems to be incompetent but they are not trying to charge to fix anything so I do not know what to make of the situation. If you can suggest anything I'd appreciate it. We are basically looking for the best way to get rid of it financially. Basically if it were your car and you couldn't work on it yourself what would you do? We had an offer of $750 for it but it has $500 dollars worth of brand new rubber on it, and the kbb value is about 4.5k in poor condition. Should we attempt to repair and sell it, or should we just sell it as a "mechanics special"? If we try to sell it what should we expect? I completely understand if you can't give a definitive answer, I'm just looking for a ballpark. I'd get the issue looked into by a competent mechanic before selling it. It is doubtful that it is a mechanical issue, by the sounds of things. On a Nissan I would be more inclined to believe an injector failure. Odds are they tried throwing coils and plugs on it and it didn't work. Nissans are notorious for injector issues. I agree with Seth that is more likely something non mechanical, like an injector or bad sensor somewhere sending faulty signals to the ECM. Lazy mechanics don't want anything to do with electrical gremlins. I have repaired and sold many electric gremlin cars that I got for free. Have you retrieved any code's from the ECM? Try resetting the ECM and see if it has any effect. When an ECM is reset it will run in limp (default) mode for X amount of mile's (usaully around 50mi) until the ECM has collected enough data to recalibrate. To reset the ECM disconnect the battery cables and hold the cable ends together. This will discharge any power stored in the ECM and clear all collected data. Make sure to retrieve any codes before discharging. Some code's are false in the sense that they point you in the right direction, but not always the actual sensor. Awesome guys thanks! So if I reset the ecm I might be able to get it home, also how long do I need to touch the wires to discharge the ecm? My house is only about 3 miles away and my Mom's is even closer. If not I'll probably just get it towed. If the car is not running then yes try the discharge. 30 seconds is usually sufficient. If it is running I would try to retrieve the codes first. After re reading your first post I remember a similar issue on a Nissan I worked on. IIRC It ended up being the MAP/MAF sensor in the air intake. I can't remember if I just cleaned it or replaced it. IIRC I replaced it bc it tested out of range with a ohm's meter.

That slut has been in quite a few tatt mag's I have looked at lately.