j-roadtatts

Now they're all confused.Very true. Without it we would all drive the same shit, do the same shit, and life would suck. Free will makes life worth living brother. J Think divine intervention. He gave freewill so we would destroy our fellow man. Was a reflective comment in response to divided opinions.

Push on the speaker when it is not playing. Do you hear the coil scraping then?

If sq is your goal you will most likely be happier with the cabin sealed and the sub firing forward. I personally have mine sealed off to the 9th degree. I have played with several other configurations but that one sounded best to me. Not the loudest, but the most accurate, with the least coloring. My setup before was with the sub forward sealed with only wood, which sounded really clean also. With less effort. As you said, either way you have the rear deck and surrounding area deadened nicely. All food for thought.

Why did father give these humans free will?

Sealing off the trunk for the right reasons isn't a bad idea. You might of been able to get similar results with less work though. You wont know which sound you will like subjectively with out testing. Once it is built in and sealed you won't be able compare. Keep us posted. And don't forget pics.

Firing the sub into the cabin may or may not be louder. Would definitely do some testing before sealing the trunk if thats your only reason. Yes sealed will quiet down truck rattles. But if the sub is louder firing into the trunk, you may want to just deaden the trunk. As sub freqrency soundwaves are so long, sealing every little hole to the trunk will not make that much difference. You would be better off doing the MLV over the rear deck and any other surface facing into the car around the trunk opening. My suggestion would be butt the box up to the frame you have built and listen to that before wasting a bunch of time trying to seal every little hole. I say this as I have done subs firing into the cabin with both methods.

A reference chart for you brother. As Jay-cee suggested, test tones might help you pick out the offensive frequencies. Here is a link. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/42728-test-tones-sliding-tones-pink-noise-all-lossless-for-dl/ As we are all here to learn and help. I will give my logic on a few things. My logic on making cuts FIRST on the EQ before boosting, Is its best to remove the nasty shit first before adding more to the mess. sure you can start anywhere, but logically that's a good place to start if your unsure. My logic on phase vs T/A as Sean's answer was brief. Different frequency soundwaves are different lengths crest to crest. The only way to achieve absolute phase would be if the drivers are mounted together, on the same plane at the same distance. Which is almost impossible even in a studio let alone anywhere else. What we are trying to achieve by reversing polarity on only one speaker is to change the relative phase. In a car for example the passenger speaker is already multiple crests ahead of the drivers speaker by the time it reaches your ear. Some frequency's will still be in phase or close to it, while other frequencys are not. Due to the waves being different lengths they are going to be different degrees out of phase. When you reverse to polarity you are hoping to bring certain frequencys waves closer to an acceptable degree of phase. An out of phase wave may lead to an absence or even distortion at that particular frequency. Some will even prefer the distortion as it may sound louder to them, over the sterile sound. Subwoofers would be a great example, out of phase they may sound louder due to distortion, but the ear is not as sensitive to distortion in that range so they will enjoy the obnoxious boost. For YOUR purpose today we are hoping that the reverse brings the midbass to life by shifting the relative phase. T/A will shift all soundwaves, I believe it is called a phase shift. The other purpose for trying different phasing would be at the x-over points. As the tweeter and mid are playing the same freq at or near this point, you may get a suck out around the x-over point. The same thing is occurring with the relative phase. Sometimes reversing phase will only worsen the dip in the response and you just have to live with the better of the two. I do not have a degree in acoustics so may of used a term with other meanings or missed something. My experience is from being in friends studios and at live shows. Nothing worse than live music coming through in waves with half the harmonics missing. Not to be confused with the echo of to many sound sources. I call the latter the Wal-mart sound.

Suggestions on tuning are just that. If you want a speaker recommendation, give a more detailed objective. As the example above. Being so subjective with your awnsers won't really help as opinions vary so much.

Listening to the individual driver will give you an understanding of that particular drivers acoustical signature and limitations and that's about it. I will give my best guess from what you have described, your music type and without listening in person. You are looking for a driver with an acoustical signature in a whole different pall park. Something with more amplitude from 100-1k and less cone breakup above that. IF there has to be a sacrifice it would be lossing 80-100hz. Just a guess, but gives you an idea what info is needed. As at this point is obvious you just don't like that drivers acoustical sig and you are looking for an upgrade.

I have rehabbed quite a few wiring harnesses and replaced a few also. This is where I shine as most cringe. The whole 5 glass fuses in the original box are rusted in place. lol A 12 circuit blade style fuse box will be a nice upgrade. Fuck VW Beetles. Thought building one would be fun..... ONCE.

A ditch or a lift would of been stellar for the hard lines. At this point only have the e-brake cables and exhaust left to do. So hopefully once the car is driveable, I can borrow a lift for the rest. Have been doing the under coating as I go. Rear axle will be pulled to freshen it up. REALLY want to drive it first, to decide if an gear change is in order.

I was forced to look at the fuse box yesterday. I will rewire the car sooner than later, but was trying not to get that vision stuck in my head just yet.

Gramdpa is stoked as he is the one that bought the car off the showroom 50 years ago for his wife. The maiden voyage will most likely be to Twin Falls Idaho to show him the ride.

Fuel tank and new shoes will be here next week! 5K later and the only part that will be visible will be the new shoes. Should drive like a dream with new brakes, steering and suspension though. Paint and interior can wait a minute at this point. Just about everyone in my wife's family is pissed they don't have the car. Had to tell everyone of them, fuck off, atleast I will fix it up.

I usually enjoy doing brake lines. The fuel and middle brake line would be an exception in this case. WAY to many obstacles. Plus not laying under the car all day didn't suck.

I have the bender and flare tool, but after doing the front brake lines I decided a 100 bucks for pre-bent fuel and rears was a good idea. Got everything ran and dual master cylinder installed!! Now for the fun part...Bleeding these MF'ers.

Neither of them are wearing goggles...

Good day for Baptists

Thank god I don't own an GM cars!!

They are still playing that shit?

This is going to be fun

Will even trim your ear hair. That's neater than dog shit.

That blows Matt. I can relate with both. Has been literally 100's of little changes that has helped in the long run. Behaverial treatment I guess you could call it.

Rims and tires ordered!!