socialstealth

I had a 4th order bandpass box designed for me, but he didn't give me an output graph or tuning frequency or anything else. So before I build the box, I'd like to know what the output graph looks like (if there are any high/low peaks/dips in the curve at certain frequencies). How can I figure out what the 'range' of the box/sub is? I'm not sure how to ask this, but I'd like to know the frequency band width. Whats the lowest the sub should play and the highest the sub should play. So I know where to set my subsonic//lowpass filters. Can anyone help me? Let me know what measurements you might need or just tell me how I can calculate it.

Thanks!

Yes I think your right; I bought the design from argent, and those are the specs. when you say 'low end', how low are you speaking of? I'm not familiar with 4th orders, and the 'high' tuning scares me. Any idea where I should set the subsonic filter/high pass to protect my driver? (12'' dc lvl 4)

I believe what the dealer(s) were trying to say is that compared to major companies and corporations, sundown is a small company. I don't think sundown is incorporated, which means if anything happens to jacob, Sundown goes poof. Although I'm a big fan of sundown, I think your local dealers have a point. If they sell a kicker amp, and someone has a problem with their kicker amp and brings it back to the shop, the shop knows that they can either fix the amp and get reimbersed by kicker or just send the amp back to kicker and get a refund on it. Although they could do the same thing with Sundown at this moment, If sundown is bought out or goes out of business, the shop won't be able to go to them for warranty information. Now I know that sounds a little hostile against sundown, but theres really no way to tell how it would play out, until it plays out. So the shop owner has a valid point. As for him getting angry, Imagine if someone walked into your store and said why don't you carry xxx brand, I won't buy your stuff because you don't sell xxx brand, xxx brand is better. Its like a kick in the balls, and if anyone else is around to hear you I bet they're going to go home and look up xxx brand instead of buying something right away. Just not a good issue to press.

not sure i follow why you posted that? I think you have this thread mistaken with the 4th order caviler thread.

Ah well I'd like the box ported into the cabin, with the trunk sealed off. And I'd like a lot of low end dbs, anywhere from 15hz-40hz, the lower the better. I have a google sketch of the box drawn to scale, so it has all the measurements.

I have a 12'' dc lvl 4 in a box; 2 cf tuned to 30 hz. I have an audiocontrol epicenter which will be replicating fast-paced bass down to the subwoofer level (rock music). Would it be worth it to run the sub at 4 ohms as opposed to 1 ohm? 1 ohm would of course be cheaper, but would I notice much of a difference (considering the bass will be rather fast-paced) if I bought a 4 ohm 1000w amp? what amp would you guys recommend? I know a DC sub isn't the best choice for SQ, but I already have it frontstage is a pair of hertz mlk 165's powered by a ZED kronos alpine 9887 hu.

would the 2runs of 0g into one amp make the amp draw current more efficiently for a smaller amp? Like one of the sundown 1200 v2s Sort of like how 'bigger is always better'. ???? if so, if you could show some test figures i'd defiantly be interested in this.

I read your article; according to sundown's figures, their amplifiers efficiency rating only changes by a few % when comparing 1 ohm to 2 ohm to 4 ohm loads. So is it pointless to power a sub with an ohm load over 1? is there any real advantage to getting a more expensive 2 ohm or 4 ohm load amp for a sub? (well, for my sub i'd say) Basically, what it boils down to, bottom line, what I need to know.... this is my system, please give me your criticisms, be as judgmental/helpful as you can : 80amp alt spv70 stinger bat in the trunk random duracell batt under the hood 0g connecting the batts, big 3 in 0g alpine 9887 (main source is ipod connection, mp3s) hertz 165 mlk comps powered by a ZED kronos, ran through a kicker 2ch 31 band EQ dc lvl 4 12'', powered by ??????, box tuned to 31 hz, 2 cf Audio control epicenter between the sub amp and the hu. I listen to punk-pop-rock, classical, and some rap. bands like: senses fail, eminem, mozart, bach, etc. I like listening to loud music without distortion. I like feeling the bass.

Explain what you mean by "I figured it would reproduce the 100hz area down in the 40 hz area." Are you saying you think it would transform the 100 hz notes into 40 hz notes? If so, no, it does not do that. No, I mean reproduce as in copy the notes and play them at a lower frequency. Sort of like lets say you play A B D on a piano starting at middle C; well the epicenter plays A B D at the same time that the previously mentioned A B D is played, but at a lower frequency. Correct?

when you say you 'never felt the bass was worse', do you mean that in a good way? like the bass was 'sick' ? or do you mean the bass felt terrible (in a bad way) ? At 650w @ 4 ohms it sounded good, at 1000w @ 1 ohm it sounded bad, so are you running your saz1500 @ 4 ohms?

well I just googled regulated vs unregulated power supply and read a few articles and I must say I am confused as ever. I haven't connected the epicenter yet, so I'm not sure what it sounds like. But i'm interested as to your experience with them ///m5 what epicenters have you heard/used? can you describe why it'll make things worse? I figured it would reproduce the 100hz area down in the 40 hz area, as the rock songs I like don't typically go down that low (so the sub is virtually useless for those songs). I've read that many people think that epicenters make the bass 'muddy'. I think one could associate this with the subwoofer's inability to stop itself and produce the next note accurately. So wouldn't a higher dampening factor solve this issue? And of course, doubling the ohm load twice drastically increases the dampening factor. can someone make up some percentages for me on efficiencies comparing regulated // unregulated and 1 ohm // 4 ohm?

any more news? the suspense is building up! I can't wait to get my kronos

any ETA?

Sorry about that >.> I feel like an ass for asking that. I just read the entire manual (all 40 pages of it...) and I have a few questions He mentioned that 1000w at 1 ohm is like 4 db louder than 500w at 4 ohm. Does this imply that 1000w @ 4 ohm is louder than 1000w @ 1 ohm? or am I a bit confused here? Also, what type of board is the kronos made on? double sided? etc? Lastly, I'm curious as to why the feature that constantly analyzes the ohm load of the speakers is beneficial? Correct me if I'm wrong but, basically what it does is tell the amp that instead of there being a 3.5 ohm load, there is a 3.7 load because of the voice coil heating up from playing. Is it that big of a deal? Can someone explain this to me? Thanks When is this group buy being closed? I plan on getting a kronos within the next few days.

I read the first thread and didn't find this information, I also found the DIY thread and didn't see it there but for the Kronos... Do you know the dampening rating @ 2000 hz? most other amps are rated @ 2khz so I'd like to compare it (to audison srx and zapco 750.2) Also, do you know the efficiency rating of it? how would you rank it against other amps like the zapco 750.2 and audison srx etc?

Anyone want to sell me a sae1200dv2 for the cheap?

Car: 02 mazda protege cabin speakers: pair of hertz mlk 165 comps cabin amp: ??? trunk bat: stinger spv70 sub: 12'' dc lvl 4 sub amp: sundown sae1200d headunit: alpine 9887 source: ipod Processors: audio control epicenter Interests: listening to loud music while driving, mostly rock / alternative / indie / punk music. my sub is in a 2 cu ft slot ported box tuned to 30 hz. what amp would you suggest for my cabin comps? I'm looking for a 2 channel that I can run with the passive crossovers. I'd prefer something thats pretty efficient, don't need any crossovers or anything like that on it, because I'm just using the passive crossovers. And if I ever decide to go active, I can just use the 9887's crossovers and get another 2 channel for the tweets. I don't really know what the difference is between a $600 150x2 zapco amp and a $200 sundown sax.4 bridged for 170x2. Not to say that I wouldn't notice a difference, but I've never heard either of them so..... I'm asking you guys. What do you suggest I get? budget is about $<400. No problem with buying used, so long as its in good condition. Someone is selling a Image Dynamics 700.2 BNIB for $400, good deal? Also, on a side note, what kind of enclosure would you guys suggest for my comps? someone told me IB would be the best bet for both the tweets and mids. I plan on fiberglassing some kickpods so I could just vent the mids into the door shell. I know this is a very opinionated question, but can you tell me what YOU think the best place to mount my tweets would be? A pillar facing the other tweeter? A pillar facing the opposite side's person? dash facing the window? in the kick pod? just tell me what you think is the best and i'll test that out first.

I would if sundown offered something that put out at least 150w+ in 2 channels. What are the pros and cons of bridging a 4 channel amp? I've heard it results in more noise and less efficiency? It does. The 50.4 bridged puts out 160rms x 2 channels at a 4 ohm load. Ive never heard of that when bridging an amplifier. so theres absolutely no reason NOT to buy a 4 channel? It seems fishy to me :\

I would if sundown offered something that put out at least 150w+ in 2 channels. What are the pros and cons of bridging a 4 channel amp? I've heard it results in more noise and less efficiency?

If you get a voltage meter, I think it would be pretty helpful. Defiantly not useless. If you plug a dmm into an amp and play music on it, you can see the numbers jumping, and it gives you an idea of how much power the subs getting. If you know that your 1000 watt amp pushes its max 1000 watts at 32v, and your music is jumping between 10 and 20 volts, then your ok. If its jumping from 30-40 volts, then the song is probably recorded at +3 db, and you should turn the volume down. I think this would be very useful because, personally I have over 10,000 songs, most of which were illegally downloaded from torrents. So sometimes I do come across songs recorded at higher DB's.

anyone?

I had my sae1200 for quite some time. Then got an SAZ1500, planned on getting a dc lvl 4xl, but got a great price on a normal lvl 4, so I went with that and sold the SAZ1500 and started using my sae1200 again. I've been trying to set the gains with my dmm, But I've run into a problem. At first I thought it might be the headunit, but I switched headunits and the problem still persists. When I set my gains with the DMM and the subs not connected to the aim, I set it to 30v, which is down slightly from 1000/sqrt 1 All EQ's and bass boosts are set to 0. Headunit volume set to 23/35, sub volume set to 7/15 When I connect the sub, and play a 50 hz tone, I start the hu volume at 0, then slowly move toward 23. the amp voltage goes from about 1 to 10. At about 17 volume, it reaches 10. Then 1 click after that the voltage jumps to 40. When I did this with my SAZ, I set the gains according the the procedure I detailed above. Then tested it by playing a 50hz tone with the subs plugged in. And the voltage was almost the same as when the subs were not plugged in. I've tried several tones, and tried adjusting the subsonic filters and lowpass filter. What do you think is the problem???

ok, so how do I go about getting it fixed under warranty?

I'm not using the gain (bass?) knob. Just the flat-head screw driver-adjusted controls on the amp itself. All connections outside of the amp are secure. I doubt I'm inclined enough to take the amp apart and analyze the internals. Is this something that can be taken care of under warranty? The box it came in says tested 6-30-09, so obviously it was bought less than a year ago, I might be able to find the receipt somewhere in my room.