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What's up homies? It's been a while since I've posted anything meaningful. Here is my latest audio venture. It's the Zephyr kit by the latest audio start-up, DIY Soundgroup. A little history/search words about this kit. It's fashioned around the Econowave style, although there is nothing econo about this kit. It was designed by Jeff Bagby. And that's about all I know. My goals: 1. To have a reference sound system so I know what to listen for when tuning my auto sound system. 2. Be able to achieve nutty ass rock concert levels. 3. Finally be effing cool. Here is my start, wood! Box sides coming together. The kit came with a pre-cut baffle. The design calls for a double front baffle, so that meant I needed to cut a second baffle with matching holes. I started off by gluing gluing the second baffle on to the pre-cut baffle. To keep everything lined up I opted to dowel the two baffles together using my trusty but useless drill guide. With the baffles glued I drilled some pilot holes for the jig saw. My work with a jigsaw. :-0 A close up of my fine craftsmanship. You didn't really think that was it, did you? Time to clean up the carnage from the jigsaw. Viola, finished baffles. A couple of close up shots. More on the way.

Don't have an 'official' release date...we never have for anything and we never will. The tab that is on the website should be a bit of a clue. The reason there are a handful of people that have them and have put them up on youtube and what not was to do field testing to prevent any issues with happening with a few parts that we haven't used before. We got the information that we were looking for, made a few adjustments and they're about ready for release. I've had zero time to do any emails, office work, etc for the past week due to people being out sick and everything in the shop breaking at least twice. Photos have to be edited and put up on the site and then they will be released for ordering. Thanks for your patience and understanding!

he says one is reading 1 and one is reading 4, i really wonder if he's hooking things up wrong.

And everyone else who is not Aaron, Mark, or the original poster, STAY OUT OF THE THREAD!

what fuckin records ssa set? Please answer that you fuckin fool

what fuckin records ssa set? Please answer that you fuckin fool

This is really going nowhere good, just email SSA and they will resolve the issue. Remember that it is a holiday weekend, and they most likely won't get back to you right away. Enjoy your weekend, I can assure you that if there was a mix up that it will be corrected.

EVERY speaker is rated for a nominal impedance. Impedance is the resistance measurement that is used because a coil with AC voltage applied is reactive. Depending on the frequency that's applied and the inductance of that coil that resistance changes unlike with DC where resistance is simply resistance. The nominal impedance is more like the average impedance seen on a given driver over its specified frequency range. THAT is why you measure it with a DMM and see a lower resistance than its given impedance. Sure, mistakes happen, but as several have mentioned the resistance of the coil is written on the coil when it is wound. Read it and see what it says. The DC resistance you measure with a DMM WILL NOT MATCH THE RATED IMPEDANCE ON ALMOST ANY DRIVER. Like I said, go to Partsexpress for example and look at the thiele/small parameters for any speaker you want to. The Re (DC resistance) rating will be lower than the given impedance for pretty much every one of them.

Note to ANY new member. Don't ever act like this, it won't get you anywhere. A little bit of sugar goes a long way son

also false

Im afraid you don't know as much as you think you do, at least not in this instance. A DMM measures DC resistance only. The 4 ohm or 2 ohm rated "impedance" of any speaker is an AC resistance. Look at the "Re" spec on any sub on the market which is the DC resistance of the coil and it will almost never match the rated impedance and most times isn't even close and can even be about half the stated impedance. You were sent a D4 to start with, and got the D2 you ordered the second time. The fault is yours, not theirs. I'm sorry, but that's the truth of it.

They are fi parts ssa just glues them together. Like I said tge one in the vid is sussposed to be a dual 4 but its a dual 2 now my new one is sussposed to be a dual 2 but it measures dual .5

An im very mad. It cost me 457 bucks for these 2 an both them have screw ups

45 min from br. More towards marksville

2ohm

From how it looks, you ordered a 4ohm, and received a 4ohm. Now you ordered a 2 ohm so you have 2 different subs. How do you know the sub you originally ordered was 2 ohms and not 4?Dude im not pucking stupid I know how to check ohms. They fucked up twice with me because they are GARBAGE! Here is my first one that was sussposed to be dual 4 ohm http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid657.photobucket.com/albums/uu295/sld225/20130831_141331_zps91f82d79.mp4 Now watch the god damn video instead of making assumptions like you know what the fuck your talking about

You have to wait for them to become a public release like anybody else. Its not that hard, if you can't wait then move on. No need to make a big deal, they are just subwoofers man.

I originally ordered just one gcon 4ohm dvc but they sent a 2ohmdvc so I said screw it an ordered another 2ohm dvc so I can have a pair. Fast forward to today an here we are

I don't believe I said linear spiders suck. Please find it and quote it for me if I did. I said progressive spiders are better for the application of a ported alignment. As I said before, a spider is a spring. A linear spider will have a smooth curve through its movement. Meaning it gets tighter and tight at a smooth constant rate until its stretched out similar to say an accordion. Now on a progressive spider it gets tighter nice and smooth just like the linear spider up until it hits xmax. Once it hits this point it gets exponentially tighter acting as a break, to help the driver from hitting hard mechanical limits if that makes sense. Given the fact that ported enclosure unload below tuning its good to use a progressive spider as a safety feature.

They are both subwoofers

I know how they work and what they do. You're not showing me how progressive is better. If linear spiders suck as far as SQ and SPL, you wouldn't see them on 95% of all SQ drivers. Then You wouldn't see them on high powered drivers either, Ti pro's, 1st gen SS XXX, TSNS, T2000's, DDZ's, DD9500 series, tantric HDD/SHD, NSv2's, Zv4's, HDC4's etc. The list goes on. Where are your figures coming from and what driver are they being based on? I'm not trying to criticize anything. Concept and theory.

So, basically you're saying it's better for stupid people? Also, I never said you said they suck.

You know you wait an wait an buy wood an screws an tite bond an buy amps an wire an rca an batts an expect your shit to be nice annnnn pucking wammo shit all stupid because of stupid small sub company has absolutely NO QUALITY CONTROL

people are selling Sundown Xs brand new in box, so they must be poopy.