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Awe look at ///M5 junior with the cute signature, haha

The backplate is the area at the rear of the driver behind the magnet. It completes the magnet circuit that starts at the top plate then transfers over to the pole piece. Bumping the backplate allows for higher mechanical rearward excursion clearance. Since the Xcon utilizes a single magnet, it needs a lot more steel at the rear of the driver to allow sufficient mechanical clearance. Some drivers use multiple magnets not for additional motor force but simply to allow sufficient rearward mechanical clearance since ferrite is cheaper than steel. So yes, this is probably more costly for SSA since it's significantly more machining and higher material costs than had they used a simple flat backplate and more ferrite magnets to build up the rearward mechanical clearance. My guess for their reason for using it would be that it allows them to machine entire the gap in such a manor to optimize the air flow for cooling within the motor and it probably allows a more efficient return path for the magnetic flux. IMO neither is better or worse for any purpose as long as they're properly implemented. All things equal aluminum is lighter which allows for a lower overall moving mass, but power handling is a little lower than copper. That said the comparison is hardly ever equal. Everything is a trade-off, it's all about finding the best set of compromises. The Xcon uses a pretty long coil, my guess would be in their design the lighter coil was of larger benefit than any difference in power handling. Forgot - Four layer is how many layers of wire are used to create the voice coil. The more wire in the gap the higher the motor force (the voice coil is the "L" in BL) and generally the higher the power handling (although there are some other factors in regards to cooling that factor in as well). It really has nothing to do with SQ, it has to do with achieving the correct motor force for the design and having sufficient power handling capabilities for the desired design. 4-layer is pretty common in higher power handling, higher motor strength drivers like the Xcon. A shorting ring, also called a Faraday Ring, is an aluminum or copper ring or sleeve located within the motor of the loudspeaker. They can be located at different places in the motor (or multiple places at the same time), such as (for example) a sleeve over the pole or a cap on top of the pole, and where they are located does have an affect on their use and effectiveness and depends on the designers goals. Shorting rings, as the name implies, shorts out the eddy currents created by the moving voice coil. Ultimately they lower overall loudspeaker inductance and help reduce flux modulation within the motor. Nomex spiders are used by other loudspeaker manufacturers. It is designed from the ground up by Scott Atwell with the input of SSA and to their design specifications and performance objectives.

The only one being dramatic is you. Your questions were answered, however, not to your liking. If you want specifics, then state that. Most people want a simple answer which was provided. I won't even bother with your nonsense comment. Are you blind? The OP says PLEASE TRY TO BE SPECIFIC/TECHNICAL IN YOUR ANSWER If I wanted a simple answer I would not have typed, PLEASE TRY TO BE SPECIFIC/TECHNICAL IN YOUR ANSWER And the dramatic people are those defending SSA when noone is attacking SSA, and why are you guys so defensive anyways, is there something not being said? 90% of the answers I got were from people who do not know what they are talking about like yourself tire, saying because it is made in USA. Real good input and helpful to boot..... So don't get butthurt and go banning me or something. There is what, 1 new thread here a week, and I now see why. The ONLY technical reason is that the owners of SSA are too nice to put a real margin on their product. If they acted like other companies their products would be way more expensive.I wouldn't call this defending SSA, hell almost ripping on them. I give them shit regularly about raising the prices as they are inappropriately low for what you get. As for understanding marketing on how things are priced, there isn't a major audio manufacturer that my company hasn't been a critical cog in the design of the drivers. I've been in countless R&D and manufacturing centers and have an extremely good understanding of production cost. In the grand scheme of things it NEVER changes the selling price. You'd also cry at the markup's the big players can have as production is definitely an economy of scale and it is absurd how cheap things can be manufactured that way. The whole topic is a prepubescent nightmare showing an obvious disconnect in the world of business.

Lord. You should really ask why the are so cheap.<br /><br />There is ALWAYS a simple answer for how anything is priced. It is what the market will bear. Cost should never have anything to do with price. Value does. The SSA subs are a ridiculous value and IMO should be priced a lot higher.<br /><br />And yes, that is a technical answer. Any other thought on pricing is jacked.

So your answer is USA labor and quality. Yea that is exactly what the OP asks for.... How about what specifically with the quality? Is the basket machined a certain way with special coatings? Is the surround made of some high quality super rubber that most subs do not use? Is it because of the way the voice coil is put together? does that take more time? Those would be better questions to answer instead of "because things cost more in the USA". And if you guys think Mark and AAron should answer this, then why are you posting? Nobody is asking about the business, I am asking about the materials in the SSA woofer that makes it worth the price. While they do use the higher (maybe highest, I can't say for certain because I just don't know) quality parts in the cone, surround, spiders, etc. the real money is in the labor and the fact that each and every motor is machined from a blank slug of steel, assembled and the magnet is charged at that point. I'm also fairly certain the coils are each custom wound as well then all of the parts assembled by hand. That process happens over and over again for each and every driver that is built in the build house. There's a great deal of cost in building things in that manner but it helps ensure the process produces some of the highest quality, most robust and trustworthy drivers on the market. Mark and Aaron may or may not have more to add, but that's the reasons in a nutshell that they're a little spendy compared to other brands with similar specifications. At least how I see it and how it's been explained in the past. Aside from that, why do you ask? I can't see any good coming from asking such a personal question about one brand in particular without giving (actual) good cause. Everyone has their preferences and favorite brands and it's no secret that many of the members of this forum has used, liked, and will defend the SSA brand but I also believe it's for a very good reason. If this is to start any kind of trouble I'm certain it won't and this will be put to bed in a hurry.

if you find some ones post very helpful and factual then +1 it .... if its full of shit or myth then -1 it. but PLEASE PLEASE allways keep emoation out of it. .. too many times people -1 post because they are butt hurt that is not a butt hurt button

LEt me ask you this. . . . Why are the subs made in china so high? LEt me put it this way. Say an SSA/Fi/AA sub costs $200. It costs $100 to make, $30 to package and ship, and another $30 for overhead. So, the profit at best is $40. The chinese subs cost $20 to make, $20 to package and ship, let's figure in the same for overhead even though it's probably half that, so that driver that is $200 from the guy who had his shit made in china only actually cost him $70, yet he's selling it to you for $200turning a $130 profit. Add in to that, the products are often inferior to the US (my own personal opinion here) counterparts and take away from our economy and jobs.

they wont play below 2 ohms i think they protect at 1.7 and will play no lower. rememeber its two amps internaly strapped

He was right the first time. Have you ever seen how fast Alton works? He flies right through builds. LOL!! Sure. That's why I still have the 10" XCON (and PR's), 15" DCON, and 15" ICON sitting in their shipping boxes unused. One bit of good news, I did finally start assembly on the box for the Jimmy (using the $90 Baltic Birch) again. I may ACTUALLY get it done and installed before the end of the year this year. LOL

If you decide to sell it pm me. I'm happy to still have my original. J

Am I supposed to feel bad? Because I dont. You asked a question and I answered. There is nothing personal to my response, so why are you giving up? Do you think a cheap set of speakers strapped to your head will sound good? Go for it. I suggested bookshelf speakers because at least there would be some design involved and trial/error. It would get your mind moving and be much more rewarding in the end. Hell if you'd be willing to post a small build log on here, I'll donate a pair of full range speakers for your project.

In all of the projects I have ever posted about on here, i've probably spent a total of less than $100. I get things secondhand, or pick them. That being said, the drivers i've found so far are all under $5, so a pair would be less than 15 after shipping. It's starting to get clear that it's useless asking questions here anymore, I understand it's not exactly a conventional project, none of mine are really; but I would at least expect a bit of a break for being excited enough about audio stuff to want to experiment in any way I can , despite not being financially well off. Not everyone can afford nice toys; I'm homeless, I come to the local college to use the wifi to get on here. I'm trying to stay off drugs and out of jail by dumping my focus on speakers, and this is how i'm met with it. I'm lost; I thought this was a hobby not a cut and dried process to attain sound. What happened to trying new things, or having fun with it? I used to really respect people's opinions here, but not while you all put me down like this. I quit.

where did it say 3? It didn't I failed at reading.

Posting again about my recone. Just bord and wanting it bad lol. Sucks it takes this long cause Iv had a few people iv built boxes for want ssa subs after hearing mine but wouldnt order any cause how long its taking me just to get a recone.. I know its hard to keep up with orders but I know there would be a lot more subs sold if there was less time to wait

and I mysteriously have -14 rep..Wonder who could of done that. Is there a way to see which posts of mine have been voted down?

Just use whatever your electrical system can handle...

There is a very nice enclosure in this thread that almost your EXACT dimensions required designed by Alton with cut sheets and everything. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/58863-gcon-build-help-needed/ I don't know how well the RE Sub would do in it but posts like this are all over the site and you could easily modify it a little to suit your needs. You gotta put in a little effort dude. As for the sub choice, there are about 50 12's I'd take over that XXX and still have funds left over for an amp. I just pulled it up on Sonic and holy crap - $720 for ONE FREAKING 12? It's not any business of mine what you spend on your sub but just if it were me I would certainly never spend that on a single sub, let alone a 12". You could probably get the same output from a sub less than half the price, as for Sq that all depends on the box. If you tune low they'll all have fairly flat curves which should amount to decent Sq but that is completely subjective. Subjective meaning - what sounds good to Joe might sound like crap to Jim and what sounds good to Jenny might sound awful to Jerome.

He's posted a few pictures of his Setup, although he Deleted the one where he had 2 Sub Boxes, and 2 different sets of Subs.

Pepboys, autozone, radioshack, you can buy a toggle switch from any of them. Better off just ordering one off Ebay, as I saw a few switches for like $15 each at pepboys Nvm radioshack has them for a decent price

Shizzzon is steering you in the right direction, because if it IS a hardware related issue, reformatting wont do Jack.

try unplugging your laptop from the wall, taking out the battery, and holding the power button for 20-30 seconds then put your battery back in. Then try booting into safe mode w/ networking and update your graphic drivers as shizz said. my ideas are better than your idea roflll unplug and blah hahaha and display control or whatever its called on nvidia, excuse me why don't u submit some more brilliant advice instead of trashing mine i waited a couple days before posting, i just wanna help ive fixed laptops with blue screen errors by reinstalling windows before so im sharing and shizzon no disrespect taken i understand this is a technical subject idk how it works im just putting what has worked for me if windows registry has multiple errors then it could "overwork" the cpu to the point of protecting itself to the blue screen? Removing all power from the laptop resets Cmos, so if for any reason something in the Bios was changed, it would be reset to default.

Not to mention assuming the laptop only has 1 partition he would lose everything on the laptop.

If it was a CPU Cooling problem the laptop wouldn't blue screen it would just shutdown. The error its throwing is a GPU error due to corrupt Nvidia drivers, as shizzzzon said. Reformatting would probably do the trick but, that's assuming Rick has a copy of windows.

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