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Needs a new tab symbol, I get the tabs mixed up with CA-F now.

http://www.soundsolu...um/classifieds/ Example of a Classifieds Ad: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/classifieds/item/1-xcon-10-subwoofer/ We are stopping at nothing to get SSA back to the top of it's game in forum land. With that said, we have installed what we think to be one of the best forum classifieds system, period. Take a look at it, post your f/s or wanted ads, and enjoy. More info on this will come shortly. Eventually, the forum will be exclusively on this system.

Got the new box all painted, and installed. Uploading another vid to show the trunk now.

looks like I passed Invista's pre-employement testing, interviewing Monday

Using it as we speak Something I would suggest seeing to impliment would be a confrimation box when you attempt to close out the web page when making a classified. I accidentally hit the X button and it closed out losing all of my work!

Me too! 20k is just insane. 4 ZCON's.....hello 60's???

That would depend, first and most foremost, what he determines as "blow". From the topic, I would assume he is claiming that his BTL is surely louder than a ZCON. Do you know what BTL he has? First Generation (triple stacked circular magnets), 2nd generation (big UFO shaped magnet), or which one of the newest BTL? Again, I don't have any first-hand experience with the ZCON. I owned a 2nd generation 18" BTL for a year. Obviously I can't say which is louder, but if I understand correctly, which i may not, the ZCON is a competitor with the musical variants of the BTL. Meaning: it would come down to installation details to determine which would be louder.

Pontential is great! But it comes down to the end user and installation! Good luck!

Do you mean potential loudness? Some of us get confused easy; so being clear always help! wtf kinda post is that?

I looks good, but now firefox's spell check as you go, isn't working.....

High QTS removes metal from the subwoofer reducing the amount of BL. Drivers with low QTS are typically always more suited for ported enclosures. A unitless measurement, characterizing the combined electric and mechanical damping of the driver. In electronics, Q is the inverse of the damping ratio. The value of Qts is proportional to the energy stored, divided by the energy dissipated, and is defined at resonance (Fs). Most drivers have Qts values between 0.2 and 0.5, but there are valid (if unusual) reasons to have a value outside this range

Pretty clear to me Apparently not. That was in response to another member stating he was surprised the thread was not closed already. I stated it was in OT, so no reason to close it and there have been NO VIOLATIONS of the TOS. I did not say there are no TOS in OT. So now you can take that finger your waving, pull that corn cob out of your ass and stick your fist up there. When you are done with that, pull the fist out and shove your dumb ass head back up there. And then take your illiterate ass back to school and take some reading and comprehension classes, along with ENGLISH. When you have completed that, if it's even possible for you to accomplish, tell your mother we all said thank you for the laugh.

Yes, you would want them all to be the same driver. Meaning the same Qts. No, ideally you would not want to run the high Qts drivers ported. If you are looking at purchasing 2 new drivers, your best bet is to sell your current subs and just purchase 4 new "low" Qts drivers.

first your port cant be 25x3, if you use .75in mdf or other wood, you can have a max of 23.5in.

PP can mean two things, one being PayPal, but for some odd reason. I don't think that's the "PP" you were referencing to. I wasn't going to reply to this, as there are no words yet in creation to describe what spews forth from his keyboard. I literally picture a white boy, sagging pants, fake jewelry, and a "thug" accent smashing his face onto the keyboard. And then clicking "reply"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIMBKJIw2Gk Quite fitting as I'm programming a microcontroller

Having experience with this type of build myself there are two ways to go about it. Have the subs rear facing if you are not sealing off the trunk. If you have them forward facing without sealing off the trunk you will experience cancellation. The benefit of sealing off the trunk is that there will be little to no trunk rattle, which also means less coloration to the sound due to vibrating panels. There is usually in increase in output in this configuration as well due to less cancellation (rear wave and forward wave separated). The cons of sealing the trunk are damaging the vehicle, difficulty level, and the loss of the ability to shift the box around in case you need to get to something underneath or on the side. In my case I used spray foam to separate the cabin which I may not be able to remove entirely, but it's an older car that will be useless after I'm done with it anyway. If you do not get a complete seal you will experience cancellation so it is important that you seal it entirely if SPL is your goal (though I would consider this for SQ as well). Facing rear = easy, less time consuming, decent results Facing forward = Pain in the ass, great results. It's up to you.

We can't answer this for you. The only way you can get an answer is to try it yourself.

I think that amp is only bridgeable at 4 ohms.. I would either wire the subs in parallel-series for a 4 ohm final load if you're going to bridge it, or wire them each to their own channel @ 2 ohms. Just to be safe.. Just because the amp will work the way you have it, doesn't mean it's safe. Especially if you're going to be playing it at reletively high volume.

So your saying it is absolutely fine to play hard clipped music at full tilt with no worries of destroying your subs? Clipping is the number one cause of speaker failures and to suggest that clipping can not cause it on it's own is a lie. Clipping leads to the overheating of the coil at a higher rate than you'll see from sending 2 to 3 times the power cause the coil can make use of the full piston travel of a clean sine wave VS. a clipped signal that prevents the speaker from full travel and leads to overheating and finally a failure of the coil. I'm no expert on the matter but clipping and distortion are the bane of all audio and we all strive to have as little of it as possible. Distortion and the shape of the signal aren't what causes damage, it's the fact that a heavily clipped signal contains significantly more average power over time than an unclipped signal. If we were to compare a sinewave to a squarewave, the average power of the squarewave would be twice that of the sinewave. This is because for a sinewave, Vrms = Vpeak * .707 whereas for a squarewave Vrms = Vpeak. It's perfectly possible to send a heavily clipped signal to a driver and cause no damage as long as the level of power does not exceed the driver's thermal or mechanical limits. It's also perfectly possible to send a heavily clipped signal to a driver and damage the driver, but it was damaged because the level of power exceeded the driver's thermal or mechanical limits and not because the shape of the waveform was non-sinusoidal. Yes, the clipping is what caused the power to increase to a level that caused damage. But it was the average power over time that did the damage, not the shape of the waveform.

The cone is the "face" of the driver, the circular part that you can visually see moving inward and outward. On the other side of the cone, directly in the center, is the voice coil, shaped like a tube, often times made of paper, and wire is wrapped around it (coil). Also connected to the cone and voicecoil is a stiff disk with wrinkles in it. This is the spider / spider assembly. It keeps the voice coil aligned during travel, supplies a force causing the voice coil to return to it's resting position when no power is being applied. Sometimes the tinsel leads are woven in, other times they go above the spider. The tinsel leads carry the signal to the voice coil. The voice coil sits in a hole drilled through the motor (metal and magnets), this is called the gap. The front plate, pole piece, and back plate are often made of metal and used for creating a path for the magnetic field from the magnet. A/C current is applied to the voice coil and this creates an electromagnet. A/C current is in the form of a sine wave, so the polarity of the electromagnet changes in relation to the cycle of the sine wave. This polarity change causes the voice coil to be pulled and pushed in the gap from the outer magnetic field. The cone of the driver then moves inward and outward since the voice coil is connected directly to it. As the cone moves, so air is displaced, and sound is created. There are several different geometries used for positioning the voice coil in the gap, all have their benefits and weaknesses. Of course there are tons of other factors that effect a speaker's frequency response.

http://www.bcae1.com/ Section 31 on the right hand side.

Magic Link

welll i just ordered my 4 channel and i was planing on running the sundown pro audio mids 8's in my build coming up and i was wondering on what do you think of the nice tweeter that do pretty well with the pro audio mid by sundown??? i was looking at the hertz H28 or maybe the ht25 since they are slightly smaller? or also the audio que pro super tweeter and the cresendo tweeter as well my budget is some what limitless since im not doing the build till like early spring but i dont wanna spend thousands on the pair of tweeters lol any help will me be nice and i know it will be difficult since people have preferences some one might say its to bright while other say it isnt THANKS IN ADVANCE

you have 10 12 inch drivers that retail for more than $500 each sittin in your room.... and you say "i just cleaned up" You have 1/0 wire layin around in your floor from old projects you sell a crx just to buy a new one a week later you have more than one stereo competition vehicle you paid 5 grand extra for the JBL stock system so you could have good SQ with a stock system Your girlfriend knows how to wire an amp... correctly your girl friend says when we gonna build a box for my car warrentee is a bad word your college money goes to buy your comp car you spend a 6 hours in a car in the middle of sc with no ac to drive to a show just to drive back the next day blowing up subs is fun thats all i can think of for now... but those are all just about me