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8 ohm drivers are generally more efficient vs a 4 ohm driver with the same power. The driver isn't more efficient. Higher resistance or impedance in this case causes the amp to produce less power, and less strain vs a lower ohm load (say 1ohm for example), thus having a higher efficiency. But that doesn't mean it's more efficient on the same amount of power, because a 8ohm driver and 4ohm driver on the same amp will never see equal power (unless gains are changed...)

It doesn't look ruff at all the glue joints done by Fi are perfect nothing ruff about them.. dont like it buy the Havoc from AA

You shouldn't. In particular without citing the goals you hope to achieve. A couple problems: multiple tweeters in a front stage are bad and you should run every driver on its own amplifier channel unless you are truly capable of building a custom passive xover. If you aren't willing to do either it really won't sound all that good. If you have to you can probably just parallel them with a 5x7, but you are going to need some sort of Lpad to adjust the level of them and a crossover to keep them from blowing.

I'm going to build a box for a buddy of mine that has a 1988 Camaro Iroc-Z. It's not going to be in the wheel weld as of other boxes. But right behind the rear seats. In this picture where the amp is located, there will be an enclosure for them, and it won't cover up the whole trunk area. I am going to use dual 4" Areo ports, and I was wondering how long will they have to be to have a tuning of 32-32hz. I'm thinking 1.6-8 cubes in total for both subs, and the amp I am using is a Polk Audio 4channel 800 watt amp that will be bridged to run at 4 ohms. The aim is mostly for SPL since there is no true SQ. But he would like to be able to listen to a variety of music, such as: rock, rap, alternative, just about any random think you can think of. not really.. His system as of right now is running an Alpine CDA-9884 running Infinity 4x6 fronts, and pioneer 6x9, and will be removing the extra set of 6x9 running off the amp. Just a little help, if you can. Thanks SSA!

Cant wait to pair this amp with my CS60CF and bring some midbass back to the car! Also, do you guys recommend me to bridge my speakers and go 180x2 or should I just keep it separate channels 85x4? I know is 100watts over the rated specs, but might be good for some mid bass action? i have the Bravox carbon fiber 6.5s on this amp bridged. sounds awesome. gain is about 1/5 the way up. u will be happy

http://www.audioxpress.com/magsdirx/ax/addenda/media/kolbrek2884.pdf http://www.audioxpress.com/magsdirx/ax/addenda/media/kolbrek2885.pdf Have fun

Here's a horn loaded enclosure.... notice how the port opening behind the sub is very small and as it travels around though the length it widens.... same idea as the traffic cone.... Folded horn enclosure Another plan for one.... Autotuba Here's a kinda horn.... Hybrid horn

Actually it is very different. When port area is increased (i.e. using a large port) the port length must increase as well. They're only doing what they have to in order to get the tuning they want with the port size they're using. An actual horn loaded enclosure can vary in design greatly, but will at some point have some part of the enclosure passing through what looks like a small narrowing hallway in order to produce the horn loading effect. I'll see if I can find an example or two.

I was thinking L port, but he wants areo's. If anything, I can do more then 2 ports, thanks I haven't calculated the space yet because his car is in the shop since he spun all of his bearings.. lol waiting for a new motor

anyonee?

upupup

I guess for starters I really don't see the point behind any of these charts. Not to devalue stephan's work.....but com'on, it's basic math that anyone capable of successfully operating a computer should be able to figure out on their own in a matter of minutes with a calculator. It would probably take more time to pull up a chart than it would to just figure it out by hand. I mean seriously, would people really not be able to figure out the area of more than one circle, then compare that number to another, on their own without use of a chart? Can someone not look on the companies website for Sd, multiply it by the number of drivers they want to use, and do the same for a different sized driver and then compare the two? If someone can't manage to figure out this little bit of information on their own, then they should probably to revisit elementary school as that is where the basic skill sets required to accomplish this feat are acquired. My main issue with the use of that chart, aside from the laziness required to even need to use that chart, is that it is teaching people wrong information. It may be close enough for government work....but it's still wrong. And if it's teaching novices wrong information, then that will simply confuse them more. They'll be missing out on a basic but fundamental concept. Cone area is a simple driver parameter, that is apparently disturbingly misunderstood. It'll only make things worse if we start them off by teaching them wrong information. When you were in school, your educators hopefully didn't teach you that Pi was 3 since that's "close enough" (there have actually been laws passed throughout the years to attempt to change the "officially recognized" value of Pi in various states and localities....ignorance abound). Second, there can actually be a fairly significant difference in Sd between two same sized drivers. If we assume there's no difference by using incorrect values for determining area, then we are again missing important details. A 12W7 for example has approximately 1db worth of additional cone area than the SSA drivers listed above. That's breaching the realm of audibility, due simply to difference in cone area between two different "twelve inch" drivers that the original chart completely ignores. Last, most people interested in cone area are trying to determine potential output differences. Cone area alone is useless for this purpose. For that, you would need to know Vd not just Sd. In order to obtain an accurate Vd, you would need an accurate Sd and Xmax. Using inaccurate Sd will misrepresent potential output capabilities and differences. Again, making the information useless and teaching novices wrong information. Overall, I can't think of a single reason to suggest or recommend the use of wrong information.

The idea that a capacitor can help anything at all is that it holds a fair amount of current that can be utilized faster than a battery can. However, there's some time constants involved in the amount of current that the cap charges and discharges in any given scenario. The idea is that in a sudden demand for current draw the cap can help "stiffen" the voltage in the circuit and prevent the voltage from dropping, and it can, but only to a point. As far as what you're asking for you particular application it will not help at all, even by the theory that involved the use of caps in the first place. For burping scenarios you're playing a tone for a few seconds, right? There's no dynamics, no fluctuations, just constant demand for whatever the time period is and anything the cap could do to help would have been used up in the first few milliseconds and could/would actually become a drain on the rest of the electrical system as it would continue to attempt to charge back up. This is a VERY basic description of why it does nothing to help, especially in high current demand situations they simply don't work. Now, if a persons headlights are dimming and flashing like a light show at a concert one can put a cap on the headlights and get stability in the voltage for them, as has been suggested before, BUT it does nothing to solve their real problem. It's just a real world example of them working, but that is also not a high current circuit. As M5 said, the only benefit is to the companies that make them. Marketing hype and unknowing users who swear they have helped happening for years has people believing there's any real benefit.