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I wouldn't go for the Daber given your intended application. Just going by inductance, the driver will have a self-induced roll-off beginning around 280hz, which is more than a half-octave below your desired bandwidth. I'm really not sure where this Qts of .35 thing came from? Qts alone isn't going to help you entirely. There is a significant difference in response between a driver with a Qts of .35 and an Fs of 70hz, and a Qts of .35 and an Fs of 35hz. The 2nd driver would have an F3 approximately one octave lower than the 1st in the same alignment. So you need to consider both the Qts and Fs to really determine the response. Really, what you're actually looking at is Qtc and Fc....in an ideal "IB" environment, Qts = Qtc and Fs = Fc. However, your door may not end up being a true IB environment. So the Qts and Fs may be different than the Qtc and Fc. You need to consider how your door is going to affect the driver, and the effect will be slightly different for every driver depending on it's Vas. The 2nd thing to consider is differences in driver behavior with different Qtc's. A lower Q is going to be more overdamped with a shallower roll-off and generally the least output above F3. Subjectively this is typically said to be a little "dry" or "sterile". A higher Q is going to be a little more underdamped with a steeper rolloff but slightly more output above F3. Subjectively this would be a little "thicker". A Qtc of .5 has optimal transient response at the cost of peak output and a higher F3. A Q of .707 has optimally flat frequency response, the lowest F3 and transient response that is still considered good. A lower Qtc typically has slightly more output at the lower frequencies (somewhere below F3) due to it's shallower rolloff even though the F3 may be slightly higher. F3 is the frequency at which the response has rolled off to a level of -3db. So, the main point of those brief paragraphs was to explain that your target Qts may or may not be ideal depending upon where you want your final Qtc to end up, and also that you can't look at Q alone you also need to consider Fs/Fc. If you were pushing the power limits to get the output you wanted in the midbass, a higher Q alignment may give you a little more output in the 60-100hz (depending on the Fc). Another thing to look at is inductance, or Le. A driver's inductance and resistance create a classic 1st order (6db/oct) lowpass crossover. You can determine the corner frequency with the formula; Frequency = Re/(2*Pi*Le) *Le in henries Ideally you would want this to be one octave above your intended crossover frequency. Additionally the response should be relatively flat within this bandwidth. If you can find some distortion and other measurements to make sure it doesn't experience any cone breakup or distortion issues within your intended bandwidth, that would be a bonus. I would also take displacement into account. The more the merrier. For example, with the Sd of that Aura, it will take 9mm of excursion to reach 100db. If you plan on listening at or above levels of 100db, you will need a driver with atleast 9mm one-way Xmax (with 346cm^2 of Sd). The louder you want to go, the more excursion you will need. Sensitivity.....meh. The only reason I ever really care about sensitivity is in regards to Hoffman's Iron Law. That's what I can think of off hand.

This is in the latest edition of Performance Auto & Sound Magazine......and available online. Just thought those who don't see that magazine would like to check it out! PASMAG | PERFORMANCE AUTO AND SOUND - Incriminator Audio IA6.4 Amplifier

This might be something to look at .... Solen Electronique Inc.= The specs http://www.solen.ca/pdf/peerless/850146.pdf

Meh. If people give you shit for your choices on what you do with your body, to hell with them.

i can tell you are just getting started, so lets get a few basics out of the way. if you have a BTL then 1000w will work just fine, but you arent going to be maxing out your potential. if you are fine with this, get the 1000w amp. i would advise something in the 1500w to 2000w range tho. its always easier to start off with the "right " equipment than to have to buy something, sell it, and buy something else. that ends up getting expensive. as far as turning the sub on/off, yes you can do that with an EQ. But, you can also do that with a remote gain found commonly on larger amps. as far as your car and its electrical system, realize you need to do everything eventually. if you want to play with a big system, you are going to need the Big 3 done in 1/0, you are going to need at least 1 good battery, and you are going to need a better alternator. you can even do them in that order if you are on a budget. just realize that every thing you do is only going to make your system better. if you decide to skip something there will be consequences. like if you skip the alternator and get a second battery, then you will be fine until the batteries drain. you need to be able to recharge the batteries as fast as they are being drained. go too long without upgrading the alternator and you may end up with 2 dead batteries (fried is the wrong word. they will die from being overdrawn and cycled to death.) you may also want to read around on the12volt and bcae1.com. you will want to understand ohms law at least a little bit, and you will want a good digital multimeter and the knowledge of how to use it. and cheap and this hobby do not go together very well. you dont want the sound to be cheap do you? you get out of it what you put into it. so strive for quality equipment even if it means brown baggin it for a week or two.

SSA Store - Incriminator Audio 6.4 4-channel Amplifier

seriously? How about you give us some more information such as what amp your using, box size, etc...