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im just wondering what is ir score? im intrested in the xcons and was wonderin how they meter. it's metering 144 on music near the glove box but my epic seems to be 1-2 db under the tl (from the other owner test). My pair of omegas 12s were mettering 140 on music and tuned alot higher, so i guess it's not that bad sq wise, the xcons crush pretty much anything i've tried so far oh and i get a nice flex i'll take vids pretty soon

I trump your youtube videos with this!

Alton brought up a good point with the phase. There are two different types of phase; Relative phase and absolute phase. The wiring of the speakers (having the positive wire from the amp connected to the positive terminal on the speaker) is relative phase. How the sound waves interact at the listening position (the "peak" of the soundwave from one speaker and the "peak" of the sound wave from the 2nd speaker both arriving at the listening position at the same time) is absolute phase. Relative phase isn't important. What we want is the speakers to be in absolute phase. Achieving this may require that we wire the speakers out of relative phase (reverse the polarity of one speaker relative to the other). Or, in other words, try reversing the speaker wires on one of the mids. Instead of connecting positive from the amp or crossover to positive on the speaker, try connecting the positive wire from the amp or crossover to the negative speaker terminal (and neg from the amp/crossover to pos on the speaker). This may help put the speakers in absolute phase in the midbass frequencies at the listening position, improving response. One word about phase, though. Since all wavelengths are different, some frequencies will be out of absolute phase while others will be in absolute phase. And reversing relative polarity will cause some frequencies to now be out of absolute phase while others will now be in absolute phase. This is one of the allures to using a 3-way front stage....you can wire the midranges out of relative phase without affecting the midbass (or vise versa). So, long story short.....just because all of the positives are wired to all of the positives doesn't mean everything is "in phase" when it reaches your head Unless I've still missed it.....where are your mids currently highpass? The crossover that comes with the speaker only handles lowpassing the mid, not highpassing it.

Depends on who you talked to I wouldn't have many qualms with that range being loosely defined as "midbass". There isn't a universal chart that everyone in the audio industry uses to define those ranges. They are fairly arbitrary and specific to whatever source you are referencing. 120-150hz is by far the most narrow I've seen, and nobody else in this hobby is going to use such a narrow definition. So don't get confused when people on the forums or manufacturers use a completely different (and less stringent) definition for "midbass". There was actually another thread not long ago on this exact topic; What is considered Mid Bass? - SSA Car Audio Forum It depends on their reasons for saying that. There are some good reasons, and some not so good reasons. First and foremost, there is no set rules when it comes to setting crossovers in car audio. Well, I take that back....there is one rule. That rule; Set them to where ever sounds best. It's that simple. Really, that simple. No one on the internet can tell you where to set your crossovers points, there's far too many factors involved that can't be adequately analyzed over the internet. It's just not possible. There are a few caveats to this ofcourse. One would be the potential for physical damage to the driver due to overexcursion....this can be analyzed pretty well from modeling the drivers and noting their excursion over the bandwidth at a given power level. The other would be distortion. If a driver has been properly measured to exceed acceptable distortion performance, then crossing the driver so that it stays out of this range would be desirable. But pretty much, outside of that, it's whatever sounds best to you in your system. Crossover Slope Basics Read the link. If it's still unclear, feel free to ask and we can fill in the gaps.

There is a specific type of filter that is called a "shelf", and it is different than a standard HPF or LPF. I would be seriously surprised if your HU included an actual shelf filter. In fact I'd be very interested in know what HU that was as I don't know of any, and very few car audio processors actually have shelving capabilities. The graph of a standard HPF or LPF look like a gently rolling hill; a shelf filter looks like, well, a shelf (hence the name).

I can't say I've ever seen a broadly accepted definition for "midbass". Just a simple google search for the definition of midbass results in 3 different frequency ranges from 3 different sources. The definition of "midbass" is going to vary depending on the source. There's no authority, that I'm aware of, that can or has defined the "official" range of frequencies that encompasses "midbass". Everyone's opinion and definition will vary. And just an FYI to others, when most people on the forums are discussing "midbass", as well as most manufacturers in our hobby, they are not talking about such a narrowly defined range. Here are the google search results; Regardless, our identification of sound and localization cues has little to do with what frequency range we arbitrarily define as being "midbass", and everything to do with the wavelength of the frequencies in relation to the dimensions of our head and the physiology of human hearing. If the slope of the crossover is decently steep, a subwoofer with a crossover point of 250hz should be pretty well within the realm of what I described above. That said, I wouldn't recommend a 250hz crossover point for a subwoofer for a number of other reasons. Without hearing the system, there are a number of reasons why the subwoofer might be obviously identifiable as being "behind" you. First would be any rattles/buzzing/humming/etc that may be coming from panels behind the listener. Second would be any mechanical noises that subwoofer might be producing. Third would be tactile sensations....for example, feeling the vibration of the back of the seat. That's a quick but certainly not comprehensive list of a few reasons.

A 4" port gives 12.56" of port area, I beleive you need 1-4" port for each cu.' of box space. The 6" will give 28.26" of area. Might need to check me on that. Decisions, Decisions it is dificult to decide which way to go...Good Luck!

Long subject. Unimaginably long subject. I'll try to condense it down into a digestible version. We localize midbass in the lateral plane only (i.e. left to right). We don't localize it on a vertical plane (high and low), and we don't localize it "front to back". Midbass is localized by way of what's known as Interaural Time Difference (ITD). That is, the brain localizes midbass laterally due a difference in the time arrival of the sound wave between the left ear and right ear. ITD dominates our localization ques in the frequency bandwidth where the wavelengths of the soundwave are longer than the distance between our two ears. Generally the more ITD you can generate, the wider the potential imaging. From this very basic knowledge, a couple things can be extracted. First, any midbass location that results in identical ITD will be indistinguishable to the ear....above your head, below your head, in front of you, behind you, it doesn't matter......as long as the ITD stays the same, your ears and your brain won't know the difference. Second thing we should notice is that worst location for a midbass is at a location that results in an ITD of zero; that would be directly in front of you, direct behind you, or directly above you. Related to this, since "imaging" in the lateral plane is a function of ITD, the "best" midbass location is a location that results in maximum ITD (i.e. the wider you can get the speakers, the better). Now, a few caveats to this: First, hearing rattling/buzzing/etc as a result of the midbass speakers exciting panel resonances (door panels, etc) or other noises will ruin the illusion. Second, the speakers must be operated within the bandwidth where ITD is the mode of localization. If you operate the driver outside of this bandwidth (this includes driver distortion, etc), then other factors will begin to contribute to our localization of the sound. Proper time alignment of the midbass drivers will need to be maintained with the other drivers in the system as well as between the midbass drivers themselves. Lastly (I think lastly, I'm typing this up semi-quickly), this does not take into consideration the effects of other factors such as reflections or other anomalies. In the midbass region, the physical aiming of the driver doesn't matter. The wavelengths are very large in comparison to the diameter of the cone. What this means is that the frequency response on-axis and off-axis is going to be identical. You don't need to worry about trying to aim the drivers at the listener or anywhere in particular. There is going to be no difference in response between being directly on-axis and 60* off-axis, for example. Drivers operating within a bandwidth where the sound is non-directional (i.e. no difference between on-axis and off-axis sound) are said to be in their "piston range". So, what did we learn from this very brief primer to midbass? Yes, you can mount midbass drivers behind you....your brain doesn't know the difference. Mount the drivers as wide as possible to maximize ITD. Aiming the drivers doesn't matter.

It's not exactly upgraded either...