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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/06/2009 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Ok, so this guy from Calgary ordered up some subs a little over a year ago for his home theatre setup. A little over a month ago, he phones me again telling me they aren't enough. We start sharing info and I find out he was the Canadian car audio champion back in the early 90's. So after a 17+ year hiatus, it just so happens that Big Dave is planning to get back into the car audio scene once again. He calls himself 'Big Dave' for just reason - he's bigger than me and has that deep, husky voice you can only associate with men of larger stature. Eight IXL-12's, four MLI-65's and a 2000 Ford F250 bought primarily for car audio, this should be a very interesting build. He's also into a lot of customizing (read fiberglassing, totally modding of stock environment, etc. etc.) Here's a shot of his trophy "army" with the car that made it all happen - circa early 90's.
  2. 1 point
    Ok i am gettin a 240sx do yall think a fi btl 15 or 18 wood blow out the windows of the car and if so what is a good kinda glass to get to keep that from happen
  3. 1 point
    There are quite a few used SAZ-1500's in the For Sale section. Highly recommend them, practically bulletproof amps and great customer service.
  4. 1 point
    generally don't see any worries with glass till you get over 155 db's, and then it's very vehicle dependent. with a single BTL, no worries, with 4 18's on a wall and 4-5k on each, then yeh would probably expect a little more window flex...
  5. 1 point
    I don't think it will blow out any windows. your would need alot of power and high pressure to do that. not from a single 15 or 18 btl
  6. 1 point
    I might. Ok, so if they are dual 4 ohm, is there any way to run two of them off an MTX RFL600D at 2 ohms? I was never really good at figuring out multiple sub wiring. I'm basically trying to decide between 2 187's (I'd have to build a box) or a single LI (already have a box). Daily driver, all types of music. Yeah you probably would, glad to hear you dont care about your life. D1 ohm = .5 or 2 ohm load D1 ohm (2 subs) = .25 or 1 ohms D2 ohms = 1 or 4 ohms D2 ohm (2 subs) = .5 or 2 ohms D4 ohms = 2 or 8 ohms D4 ohms (2 subs) = 1 or 4 ohms
  7. 1 point
    I have not replaced the factory battery. I have enough power to play with engine on. I just want to run a secondary battery to play my system with the engine off for a few moment. I don't need to play like that for hours long, let's say for 30 to 60 minutes "only" ! That is why I thought a secondary battery would be good. But I am afraid of the alternator power : would it be able to reload a rear battery ? I will use an isolator to protect my primary battery when the car is off. I would recommend replacing the front battery with the model that best fits the factory location. Once the front battery has been chosen, I would choose a secondary battery that best suits your amperage needs. To power 2400W for 60min contiuous without the engine running you will need a pretty large secondary bank to keep the voltage to the amps happy. I would recommend starting with a D3100 and see how that works out. If you need more run time, you can always add more!
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