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some people do, but it's not covered, and you really don't gain all that much. wiring to .5 ohms is really more used for squeezing out that extra SPL for burps. in a recent test, the 1500d put out over 1900 watts at just under 13 volts, with an impedance rise of just over 1 ohm. For a daily setup no need to really worry about impedance rise, and the risk of problems versus the rewards for wiring to .5 ohms I just don't see justice. A lot of people think they can just wire to .5 ohm and if amp survives they will be louder than ever, if that was the case, why would anyone waste money on a 2000d to run at 1 ohm when they could run a 1500d at .5 ohm? because it's not a good idea. now to let you know though, for SPL competition, the amp is capable of 2600 watts possibly more with proper electrical (16v) at .5 ohm. not to mention you drop efficiency by a considerable amount dropping to .5 ohm.

The 750.1 can push 2-12 CVX's, it just wont push them to their maximum output. Underpowering subs is not a problem, i currently have 700 watts on 3-12 cvx's and they sound lovely and hit hard for the power thats running to them (which is only a third of power). i am sure your pushing more then 700watts kickers are always underrated Definantly dont have them on a Kicker amp, on another amp till I put in the SAZ-2000D. ok well i orderd my VCX's yesterday and i will have them in a few days could someone show me a diagram on how i should wire these properly to my 750.1 amp. Thanks guys lots of info i will post a pick tonight when i get home from work Just want to make sure i hook them up for the best. I am kinda new to hooking up my own systems. Thanks guys

I believe SPY does, or at least I thought it was him. Check the classified section, I believe there is an RL-i 8 for sale and someone mentions they have a gasket.

This is my Theory of what happens. subs have a Fs which is the the free air resonant frequency of the speaker. if a sub has a Fs of 35 hz and you tune your box to 35 hz. the speaker will resonant at that frequency. tuning a box to far below that like 28hz, 25hz or something like that, I might not have the right kind of pressure to keep the speaker from hitting it's Xmech, which is the max mechanical excursion of the speaker. that's why you might hear stories of people say there 1500watt sub blew out on 900watts of power. because the speaker bottomed out and reach it's Xmech because of tuning below Fs. The only issue is......why is tuning below Fs bad? In other words, why are frequencies below Fs bad but frequencies above it aren't? Your car has a resonating frequency, does it fall apart if you play a note below it? If tuning below Fs is bad, what are we to do with the Sundown Nightshade, which has an Fs of 43 hz? The 12" FI BTL also has an Fs of 39 hz. Also, how about all of those home theater subwoofer enclosures that are tuned way low, like 12-15 hz? Those are definitely below 99% of all subs' Fs. My point is that there isn't anything wrong with tuning below Fs. The problem with running into mechanical limits can occur at any frequency with the right amount of power. Even above tuning frequency and Fs.

Its good to allow for 100A of current for every 1,000W of power you plan to run. Keep in mind the most cars will need about 50A to power the vehicle's electronics, so for anything over 1,500W-2,000W, we would recommend a 250A alternator. In many occasions more than one alternator may be required to continuously power a stereo at 14V at full volume.

Buy a monoblock. Bridging a 2chan to 1chan causes a certain distortion. Monoblocks have better powersupplies that can take more beatin. doesnt get as hot, etc.