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By TLOTIS
I’m looking to build a ported enclosure for (6) Ampere Audio AA-2.5 6.5” D2 subs. They will be run on a 5k/1 ohm stable amp wired at a 1.33 ohm load. There will be plenty of power as they are 500 rms and 800 max. I can’t seem to get anything from Ampere Audio on the port size I need. With sub displacement my box needs to be 2.48 CF (+) port displacement. Does anyone have suggestions or know how to calculate the port size? Square inch and length is what’s needed. Hopefully someone can help on this
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By codester
Been awhile since Ive been on here but I Just purchased back my 2x 15" SSA Icon subs I first purchased around 11 years ago.
I have/ had them in a 7.2 cubic foot box net tuned to 32 and it sounded great on the bass music and rap/ hip hop I used to listen to but not amazingly accurate/ punchy on rock, etc.
Im looking to only use one of them in my 2010 Ram 1500.
I currently have a 10" JL W7 in a sealed box in the truck and it sounds great and I love it but doesn't quite have the output Id like and planning to put 1 of the Icons in the truck.
Im considering either Ported or sealed. I now listen to mainly bands like chainsmokers, club music, alt rock, heavy rock, and a bit of edm, etc. Looking for it to be very accurate on kick drums but also hit hard so you feel it in your chest.
According to SSA optimal ported is around 3.5-4 net tuned to around 32hz but Im thinking about tuning a bit higher. Ive done some winisd modelling but its been a long time and just wanting to hear thoughts on these designs.
My max dimensions are 20" wide, 24" deep by 22" high.
This is one design i'm considering, is 2.25" wide too thin for port width? im worried about port velocity and noise
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Or if I go sealed this is what im thinking.
Thanks again for any help
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By Austin863
Well, well, well, Look what the cat dragged in. super surreal to be back on the forum after pretty much a friggin decade.
it’s nice to see most of y’all are still active here! Here’s the current build in the works for my 2005 forester.
Plan/currently installed:
-6.5 door upgrades (2 evil 6.5 up front paired to some evil tweets|2 coaxial alpine typeS in rear doors. Most likely going to make custom crossovers for the front)
-1 Sundown Sax100.4
-Sound deadening on the inner door skins removed all plastic lining on door skins aswell.
-old ass pioneer Bluetooth double din head unit from 2012
On the way to me:
-1 SSA Evil 15” woofer d1 probably running on a half ohm to whatever amp I decide on.
-Amp TBD and Currently taking suggestions(3-400 target price range)
-1 ported enclosure tuned to roughly 30-31hz
objective of this build is to be a SQ monster with the capability to be Very LOUD and lots of pressure.
I got this car in a trade and have had to do a few maint repairs to it. But this is exactly the build I was thinking about when looking for this car. So I’m suuuuper stoked and have been brewing this build up for a while now. Feel free to ask questions and leave feedback on whatever!!
Feels good to be back!!
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By Ryann627
I currently own a 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier that I am currently building a subwoofer install in.
My complete and current installs:
New Kenwood KDC-BT378U radio with built-in speaker amp, All new door and deck speakers. (COMPLETE)
Big 3 Kit, Mechman 270 AMP Alternator, (1) Sundown ZV6 12" 2-OHM 2500W Subwoofer (wired to 1 OHM), One run of 1/0 gauge wire complete with fuse and capacitor), Fiberglass Subwoofer Box(Not sure what size yet, any help on this would be greatly appreciated)
Just wondering if all the above installs with be able to comfortably power a 3000 watt amplifier to run the subwoofer properly? I know Sundown Subwoofers are underrated, just not sure if I want to over-power by more than 500W, seems safer to me like that, unless I'm wrong? Never dealt with this much power before, max was 600 watts before this build.
Any other install recommendations? Bigger battery because it is stock? Better springs for the added weight in the rear? Box will be fiberglass but the subwoofer alone weighs 95 pounds.
Thanks in advance guys.
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