Which Fi driver to choose....

[dulas 0]

I recently sold my two Alpine type X 12's and now I want to "upgrade" to a single Fi woofer, 15 inches. I have a string of questions for you all expierienced with Fi products:

I have a single Alpine MRD-M1005 to power whatever driver I end up choosing. This amp puts out 1000 watts @ 2 ohms RMS cleanly (amp birthsheet actually states closer to 1100 watts).

I see THE the SSD would almost be a perfect match for this power rating, but I feel like im selling myself short. Id really like to get either the Fi BL or the FiQ. If I understand the specs correctly though, these are 1500 watt rms subs. So assuming I dont get any extra upgrades done to the subs, do you think im asking for trouble giving a BL or a Q 400-500 watts less than it is rated at?

Is there a BL that is only a 1000 watter? I see in the grey text (next to the white text) on the Fi website listing subwoofer specs some of the BL's show as 1000 watts....so i'm a bit confused, which is it? And are all Q's 1500 watts across the board?

Can anyone help me?

Thanks guys!

[[email protected] 6]

nah man pick whichever sub will fit your budget and your goals most. There is no such thing as underpowering a subwoofer. you can get a btl and feed it 1000 watts and be just fine. then when you get hungry you can upgrade amps and really make that sub shine. just depends on if your more into sq or spl. you like to get stupid loud or do you like it to sound amazing while still getting decently loud? its all in the budget and preference

[jonbearsmt 919]

bl

[[email protected] 6]

i 2nd the bl. had 1 12 that just got nasty low and took dome abuse

[altoncustomtech 773]

The Grey text is the specs for the dual 1 ohm coil subs, the white text are the specs for the dual 2 ohm. However, the power handling is 1500 for both. When they updated the cooling on the subs and updated the website they just missed the text there. They're not worried about changing it as they'll have a whole brand spanking new website very soon.

These guys are right, you can't under power a sub and it's not going to hurt anything to run them on your amp. The enclosure you put it into will have WAY more to do with it's performance than the amp that's running it and you can always upgrade your amp at a later date. Which, BTW what did you have planned on the enclosure?

[dulas 0]

The Grey text is the specs for the dual 1 ohm coil subs, the white text are the specs for the dual 2 ohm. However, the power handling is 1500 for both. When they updated the cooling on the subs and updated the website they just missed the text there. They're not worried about changing it as they'll have a whole brand spanking new website very soon.

These guys are right, you can't under power a sub and it's not going to hurt anything to run them on your amp. The enclosure you put it into will have WAY more to do with it's performance than the amp that's running it and you can always upgrade your amp at a later date. Which, BTW what did you have planned on the enclosure?

Enclosure will be, regardleshess of driver choice, custom built to the specs listed on Fi's website. The box will more than likely be ported, unless possibly if I got the Q, but still probobly ported because I like output. The box can be a little on the big side of it will increase output, as im only gonna have one sub and I have the entire trunk of an olds cutlass to work with.

So you guys think I would be perfectly fine running a Q or a BL on my amp? Should I maybe turn the gain up a little? When it comes to choosing this driver $ isnt that much of an issue becasue I have $500 fromt he sale of my X's.

Thanks for the help so far!

[Hzd Skizzy 27]

Gain knob is not a volume knob, it is simply there to match the signal voltage of the head unit. There is no such thing as under powering.

[StreetLegal 119]

here an idea, sell that amp

then buy a sundown audio amp, either the sax-1200 D or or a saz-1500 D amp,

choose to buy either the 15 Bl or Q , whichever one suit your goal

make sure you get the dual 2 ohm, and if money is left you can add a few options on the sub, of coures it all depends on budget, work it out, if you have to save up a bit, do it right !

You cant go wrong with the above recommendation.

[Ohjay 116]

If output is your main concern, why not shop for a used BTL?

[dulas 0]

If output is your main concern, why not shop for a used BTL?

I really dont want to add more power at this point. I had 2 m1005's and was planning on getting a BTL. Unfortunately, one of the amps blew. Now I am content with just the one. My electrical system was really strained with the two ampss my main drivers amp, and i dont really want to pay for the big three or a HO alternator (my car is aging, with 200K miles on it). I want to work with what I have. I would get about $150-200 for my amp on ebay, and I cannot afford a sundown amp at this time even after that sale, I know I said dollars wernt an issue but only to a point. I wast banking on swapping EVERYTHING.

So assuming there will be no more power upgrades, i dont think the BTL woudl be my best option. Its interesting though that you guys think I could push it with 1000 RMS. I have always been told to never ever power a sub with less than 2/3 of its rated RMS, or you risk a blowing.\

I agree with you all though. Sundown amps are Badazz, to say the least...

[dulas 0]

here an idea, sell that amp

then buy a sundown audio amp, either the sax-1200 D or or a saz-1500 D amp,

choose to buy either the 15 Bl or Q , whichever one suit your goal

make sure you get the dual 2 ohm, and if money is left you can add a few options on the sub, of coures it all depends on budget, work it out, if you have to save up a bit, do it right !

You cant go wrong with the above recommendation.

For the price difference, right now I just cant justify the 1200 d (would add only 100 watts rms) or the 1500 D (would add only 400 watts rms VS. what i currently have. And I would be shelling out several hunded dollars to boot for that small of an upgrade.

Edited January 30, 2012 by dulas

[Ohjay 116]

If output is your main concern, why not shop for a used BTL?

I really dont want to add more power at this point. I had 2 m1005's and was planning on getting a BTL. Unfortunately, one of the amps blew. Now I am content with just the one. My electrical system was really strained with the two ampss my main drivers amp, and i dont really want to pay for the big three or a HO alternator (my car is aging, with 200K miles on it). I want to work with what I have. I would get about $150-200 for my amp on ebay, and I cannot afford a sundown amp at this time even after that sale, I know I said dollars wernt an issue but only to a point. I wast banking on swapping EVERYTHING.

So assuming there will be no more power upgrades, i dont think the BTL woudl be my best option. Its interesting though that you guys think I could push it with 1000 RMS. I have always been told to never ever power a sub with less than 2/3 of its rated RMS, or you risk a blowing.\

I agree with you all though. Sundown amps are Badazz, to say the least...

Whoever told you this was either lying or ignorant. The BTL will be louder than a BL or Q on the same power period.

[Duran 387]

The ONLY way to make a woofer fail thermally, is to overpower it.

[jonbearsmt 919]

If output is your main concern, why not shop for a used BTL?

Whoever told you this was either lying or ignorant. The BTL will be louder than a BL or Q on the same power period.

true story.

[slim2fattycake 85]

keep the amp, buy whichever sub is in your budget. output will really depend more on testing of box and placement in the vehicle than anything. But it does help to have the right sub for the right goals. output wise, BTL>BL>Q.

[Kanaworm$ 292]

Keep the amp and buy the sub which fits the budget. All Fi drivers are great, but your application I would say the BL would be the best fit!

[dulas 0]

Whoever told you this was either lying or ignorant. The BTL will be louder than a BL or Q on the same power period.

Crutchfield reps...

[dulas 0]

keep the amp, buy whichever sub is in your budget. output will really depend more on testing of box and placement in the vehicle than anything. But it does help to have the right sub for the right goals. output wise, BTL>BL>Q.

So a sub only given 50% of its nominal wattage wont sound muddy or distorted?

Heres another question: As far as output is concerned, who would win between a 15" BL or BTL and a 15" SSA XCON or ZCON?

[Ohjay 116]

Just like the BTL will be louder than the BL with same power, the Zcon will also be louder than the Xcon given the same power.

[Frostedflakejake 148]

So a sub only given 50% of its nominal wattage wont sound muddy or distorted?

No it won't. If anyone told you that they are wrong. Horribly, horribly wrong.

[ricksi30 923]

keep the amp, buy whichever sub is in your budget. output will really depend more on testing of box and placement in the vehicle than anything. But it does help to have the right sub for the right goals. output wise, BTL>BL>Q.

So a sub only given 50% of its nominal wattage wont sound muddy or distorted?

Heres another question: As far as output is concerned, who would win between a 15" BL or BTL and a 15" SSA XCON or ZCON?

As far as output goes:

Btl>BL

ZCON>XCON

If you pick any of those you won't be disappointed. A sub will be fine on half power, whoever told you otherwise was incorrect.

[OuTLaWeD 110]

crutchfield reps can be idiots. one thing that can hurt the sub is if you turn the gain on the amp all the way up and you already have a 4v pre-out from the headunit

[Sencheezy 689]

Cf reps are salesmen, you know this right?

[dulas 0]

crutchfield reps can be idiots. one thing that can hurt the sub is if you turn the gain on the amp all the way up and you already have a 4v pre-out from the headunit

Okay so am I risking overdrawing my amplifier then by attempting to power a sub rated at twice what the amp is intended to produce? I know i will hit trouble if i max the gain or the volume knob, but what about at even 50% volume on the HU?

If anyone's wondering I have my amplifier gain set @ 2.5 volts (HU puts out 4 volts, but I rarely turn volume past 70%) and a 45 HZ bass boost at 10 db. Subsonic filter at 30HZ.

[[email protected] 6]

I say if the btl fits in your budget go for it, i have a 12 mayhem on 1200 and the damn thing surprises the shit out of me everyday, i couldnt imagine doubling the power to its rated wattage! If your interest iv got it for sale in the FS section, the AA mayhems are pretty identical to the btl because they are built in the same facility by the same people lemme know what you decide, either way you cant go wrong with either subs that have been listed here