mklett33

I always take into account the distance to the center of the port by adding half of the port width as well. I am guessing that port is 3.5"-4" wide?

Thanks bud! Would love to see some more comments, I think a lot of people would really enjoy these videos.

That was a good pointer, thank you!

Hey guys, so after posting my orginal video a few months ago about how to design a sub box using Google (Now "Trimble") Sketchup questions started rolling in about some of the more "advanced" features. Which this video to check it out!

Thanks!

Hey everyone, I wanted to share with you my techniques for wiring and using techflex. I really enjoy using it to protect wiring and it does a great job of "cleaning up" the install. It's also great for revamping older wiring. Enjoy!

Here is the latest. Since a lot of you have kind of followed the progress of this build I am curious what you think of my latest editing skills. I am only beginning to use Premiere and am curious what you guys think so far. My audio in my videos really sucked before, what do you guys think of the latest? This video shows my wiring is complete to the amps. I just need to determine the final location for all the distro blocks once it is integrated into one of the beauty panels, that is why I left some extra. Here is the video:

Yeah the first one was a lot more in depth, people were just asking questions about the few things I left out. I didn't know that, just tried it, thanks man! I am an Engineer so very accustom to these programs, I use SolidWorks professionally, but wow, I never thought to try double clicking, haha thanks again.

Is there a way this could be added to the first post?

Here you go guys let me know what you think! What is Google Sketchup? Sketchup is a free 3d modeling program that is made by Google. It is used around the world for its ease of use and accurate function. Where do I get it? Right here: http://sketchup.google.com/download/ Download the basic version. What is the advantage? You can basically "build" your box before you make a single cut! Get an idea what it will look like, even lay out all the boards to make sure you get the most use out of a sheet! How do I use it? Watch my video below! If there is any additional information or questions please let me know!

Man I seriously cannot wait for it to warm up here so I can get back in the garage, an update for those of you who enjoy my youtube videos, in the downtime I have been learning some of the Adobe Product sweet, I have also invested in green screen equipment, and new microphones, the next videos are going to have a big step up in quality!

Man I seriously cannot wait for it to warm up here so I can get back in the garage, an update for those of you who enjoy my youtube videos, in the downtime I have been learning some of the Adobe Product sweet, I have also invested in green screen equipment, and new microphones, the next videos are going to have a big step up in quality!

Nice video

Practice Practice Practice! Nice, let me know how it goes, send me a pm with your build thread ! Thanks Glad you like it, thanks!

NIce and simple, I love to see vans bumpin, haha

Damn off one 18, nice work man

WOW! Maybe if I make a thread asking how much home depot charges per cut Ill get some comments!

Pardon the dust, under construction Hey guys! Have you ever seen panels in installs like this and wondered how in the world did they get those shapes? Well with a series of router tips and tricks, you can start with literally any shape drawn on paper (shown on left), and transform it into a perfectly fabricated wooden template that you can then copy several times into future installs. (Shown on right). Take your installs to the next level with these shaped panels that you can use for hiding amps and crossovers, trimming around speakers, making amazing port shapes, the possibilities are endless! Let's get down to the nitty gritty: What you Need: Safety First! Make sure that you have eye protection, hearing protection, and a dust mask for that harmful MDF dust! Tools: Router and Router Table: Where to find: Online, Big Box Hardware Stores Starting Cost: $100 (Don’t let the cost deter you, you can easily make this back doing installs for friends and family) The workhorse of the operation the router and router table combo will allow you to use various “bits” to create different features that lead to the finalized template. Important features to look for: Variable Speed Compatible with .5" and .25" shanks Bit Height adjust from top of table Router Bits (List shows in picture left to right) Flush Trim Router Bit: Where to find: Online, Big Box Hardware Stores Starting Cost: 15 The flush trim bit will allow you to make copies of shapes and transfer them from one panel to another with the upper bearing riding against the edge of the “master” template you are copying. Spiral trim bits are better but are more expensive. Rabbeting Router Bit: Where to find: Online, Big Box Hardware Stores Starting Cost: 25 The rabbeting router bit allows you to make a 90 degree notch out of the template. This can be used in conjunction with the flush trim bit to enlarge or reduce the size of an insert. Watch the videos to understand this technique. It is in your best interest to purchase one of these with a set of bearings, allowing adjust-ability of the distance that the but will cut into your work piece. Roundover / Chamfer Router Bits: Where to find: Online, Big Box Hardware Stores Starting Cost: 15 each Though these bits are not required for template production they are very appealing when creating a finalized template as they can create a smooth rounded edge or an interesting bevel. When used correctly both can add an extra touch of appeal to a template. Jig Saw: Where to find: Online, Big Box Hardware Stores Starting Cost: 30 A more basic tool, there is probably not much info needed here. This will be used to rough cut your template shapes in order to minimize the work that your router must do to cut into the wood. Drill and Drill Bits: Where to find: Online, Big Box Hardware Stores Starting Cost: 30 Again, likely that you have an understanding of these tools. We will be using them to add a hole to start our jig saw when making “holes” on the inside of templates. Materials “Template Tape”: Where to find: Online, Big Box Hardware Stores, Art supply stores Starting Cost: 3 Also known as double sided foam tape this tape will allow you to hold work pieces together while performing steps with the router table. It can also be used to allow for material “gap” when wrapping various pieces with suede, vinyl, carpet, etc. Round and Straight Shaped Objects: Where to find: Everywhere! Starting Cost: FREE! In order to get parts of your shape to be perfectly smooth you are going to need existing surfaces to create them from. Start collecting large metal washers, speaker ring cut outs, straight edges from MDF etc!

Thanks. One comment. Sweet.

Can I get an amen?

Thanks! No problem, glad you like it, never know when you may be working on something and then realize, "Oh yeah I could use that technique I saw that one time!"

Hey guys, often times in fiberglass installs you will have multiple speaker rings that require being mounted at the exact same angle in order to maintain perfect symmetry. You do not want to spend hours on a piece that in the end has angles that are not the same. How can you insure that your speaker angles are perfect without measuring a million different angle and points? Here is my quick tip of the week to show you how:

8 ) Wrapping the Amp Rack: Vinyl, Suede, and Carpet: So it’s finally coming all together! You’re ready to finish the amp rack off! In the first video you will learn how I wrap “basic” panels, which basically does not require the use of a heat gun, but requires you to rabbet the edges of the panel for a clean finish on the rear side. In the second video I will show you how to wrap more complex panels, which requires a more aggressive adhesive as well as the use of a heat gun when using vinyl to properly form the piece and avoid wrinkles. It is very important that you take your time in this step do not attempt to secure materials before your adhesive is tacky. If you try adhering the materials to early will pay for it later when the material pulls away from the panel. It is also important when wrapping a complex panel to utilize high quality glue, as I will recommend within the video. http://tinyurl.com/bkcrj2g http://tinyurl.com/afx7rtj 9) Final Thoughts: Once all your panels are wrapped you’re obviously ready to piece things back together. It is important to verify things are perfectly secure. The vehicle can be a very dangerous place in the event of an accident, so insure everything is held firmly in place. If you enjoyed this tutorial please comment below, if you utilize any of the methods in this tutorial please feel free to share pictures within this thread of what you made! I love seeing what my lessons have helped people create! If you have any questions please feel free to post below! Good luck! ~Mark

6) Smoothing and Prep for Finish: So your fabric surface is now nice and strong! So that means it is now time to smooth things out and prepare for the finish that you plan to apply to the fiberglass amp rack. This steps video will teach you how to properly smooth the surface using a high quality body filler. It will also show you techniques that can be used to help decrease the sanding time, a HUGE time saver! Two key points here: Milkshake: If you have a relatively horizontal surface you can use what is called a “milk shake” to get things nice and smooth. This is accomplished by mixing body filler and resin with a 3:1 ratio. 3 Parts body filler to 1 part resin. You then add the proper amount of hardener and MEKP that corresponds to the amount of body filler and resin used. Upon mixing you will note that the body filler will lay down extremely well, and be very level, the downside is that you cannot really do this on vertical surfaces, and the body filler also becomes a little more difficult to sand. Green Stage Sanding: When sanding body filler you want to be sure you are sanding in the “green stage”. What this means is you want to pay close attention to body filler as it is drying. Every 5-10 minutes take a piece of sand paper and try sanding the body filler. If the body filler still seems like “liquid” then it is NOT ready to be sanded. But if the body filler sands with a “foam-like” consistency, almost as if you are grating cheese, then it is ready to be sanded. You can really sand very effectively in this phase. This is also the key reason to purchase high quality body filler. With Rage Gold you will find the Green stage lasts for 20 mins or more. With Bondo brand… well there doesn’t seem to be a green stage. http://tinyurl.com/a4e6jg6 Note that in the video I am prepping for a vinyl surface, not paint, so I only sand up to 150 grit. If you were doing paint you would want to sand smoother for the primer application… but that is a different HowTo. 7) Adding Plexi and Inserts: Now that you have smoothed out your main surface it is time for a step that can really make your install look amazing, and help tie everything together. In my design you can see the shape that I utilized over the amplifiers. It is a rounded rectangle of sorts. In order to make the entire amp rack look appealing I want to carry that design to each piece. In order to carry it to my amp rack “trim ring” I want to incorporate the rounded rectangle shape. I do this in the form of an “insert”, and what better to accent the insert than a piece of plexi glass that can be back lit, or have a logo applied. In this step I show you how through using router skills you can make an exact plexi glass shape and integrate it behind an insert. I also show you how you can use foam tape and body filler to make a perfect gap for the materials you will ultimately finish the amp rack trim piece and insert with. Big tips here are to use a high quality body filler (as you will likely be doing small detail sanding) and to make sure you use foam tape with enough thickness for the materials you use to finish the pieces. http://tinyurl.com/aqgz3ld