kryptonitewhite

http://www.extendedgmwarranty.com/owners-manual/chevrolet/2001-Chevrolet-Astro.pdf 3 Courtesy Lamps, Glove Box Lamp, Dome Reading Lamps, Vanity Mirror Lamps, Courtesy Lamps 4 DRL Relay, Instrument Panel Cluster (This is the one that I pull to kill switches, after pullign this voltage stopped dropping. WTF! DRL Relay is what makes the headlights stay on daytime unless you manual defeat it with the button. The button also shuts the dome light off) 9 License Plate Lamp, Taillamps, Parking Lamps, Ashtray Lamp, Panel Lights, Trailer Taillamps, Front and Rear Sidemarker Lamps, Door Switch Illumination, Headlamp Switch Illumination, Rear Seat Audio Illumination, TBC Module 14 Cluster Illum, HVAC Controls, Chime Module, Radio Illumination, Rear Heat Switch Illumination, Rear Wiper/Washer Switch Illumination, Rear Liftgate Switch Illumination, Remote Cassette Illumination, O/H Console, TBC Illumination 15 TBC Module, Headlamp Relay Dome reading lamps were probably separate from the dome light, but not sure. Headlamp switch illumination? O/H Console should be the same as dome light and dome reading lamps... all 1 piece up front and 1 piece in rear. Headlamp relay? Anyway, I'll just keep killing the toggles from now on..maybe I'll make 1 toggle for the set of toggles to make things easier.

I have 2 large 100aH AGM batteries in the rear and a factory sized AGM under the hood. A cpl weeks ago I went to start the van and it was dead. I got it started and voltage was terribly low. I only ran it for a few minutes then let it sit, restarted a few times for a few minutes...I dont have a charger. After a couple days everything seemed back to normal. I watch the factory gauge a lot closer and am surprised at how much voltage can change day to day while running, independant of hot days to cold days. Some times it runs around 13.5V other times 14.2V, even in the same day, sometimes 14.2V when its warmer and been driving and sometimes 13.5V when its colder and/or less drivn, but vice versa as well. Today it was low to start, but later it was high, so I disconnected the rear 2 batteries I tested right away, let it sit for 2 hours, tested again, and will keep testing through tomorrow. Right away Rear Batt 1 was 12.15V, rear batt 2 was 12.03V, front batt was 12.03. I went out and tested again now front batt is 12.03 still, rear 1 is now 11.96, rear 2 is 11.86. I expect they will slowly keep dropping over night

Last night I pulled the fuse that kills my dome light and toggle switches, the stock volt gauge was higher than i have ever seen it... 2 lines past 14V. All day i shut the toggles off when I shut the van off. Seems to have done the trick. So I looked at my manual, there seems to be 4 maybe 5 separate fuses that have some variation to "head lamp" such as "head lamp relay". I didn't take the time to turn the dome light on and pull each one one at a time to see if each killed it... but I did shut the door and watch the dome light go off but the toggles stay on. So i got to thinking... the fuse that kills the dome light that I know off, if I pull the fuse and measure the contacts... shouldnt the DMM read 12V when the domelight should be on (door open and 30 seconds after closing) then 0V after I wait a while? When I push my buttom next to my lights, the ones I depress 4 times to shut the headlights off during the daytime... shouldnt that make for 0V across it as well?

Sioux Falls SD. Turns out, my toggle switches to my amps that I run off my headlamp used to shut off when the dome light shut off after closing the door... one of the timer ones that wait 30 seconds then slowly fade. Now the toggles stay on after the dome light shuts off, my amps ( not the 4 AP30001ds, just the 2 KX850.42, KX650.4, and SX500.2... not near as bad as when the subs were working) stay on all night Now I get to play pilot to air ststems control flipping switches and more switches every time I get in and out :-P "Air traffic control, tweets fired up, mids a go, Extremis ready to get extreme... PLAY!"

Instead of having to look it up myself, what are the basics with them... 3/4" or 1" slugs? 3 or 4? Diameter? Coul... 3" or 4"? Flat copper... 4 layer or 8 layer? What is the Bl on these badboys... I'm no wizz with Thiele/Small but just wondering overall motor strength. I assume several stiff spiders... 9" or larger on a TC Sounds basket?

I think I will change the Q on the 20Hz boost, 120, last nite when the phonograph needle touched the turn table I thought it was all infrasonics and it was maxed...any more and damage. But it loks like I lost a ton from 4Hz-14Hz or so, so maybe a lot of it was 15Hz-35Hz. Watching ths subs during sweeps, they done move much at ULF and move a lot around 30 now... I'll tweak some more. The frame didnt help the manifold hopping much, or the "tower abstract" hanging from the wall... but thats all nothing. the ceiling bounce is still terrible and the supports rattle very bad. Were going to run and get some more 2x4s to brace th ceiling some more. Ran some sweeps to 20Hz on repeat to localize it to the ceiling.

lol. SS XXX weak.... now I been gettn to do a lot of laughing on this forum.

This should keep the manifold from bouncing around so much, and after some weather stripping keep so much air from blowing through

This is frustrating. I thought everything as fine but today it was way down at 12V or so running. When i disconnect the rear batts, the front seems fine, and the rear batts hold steady once they settle. So the front one holding steady by itself implies no current draw. The rear batts holding after settling implies they are fine. The only things connected to the rear batts are the amps and crossover. I can't see the amps causing current draw while they are off. It only seems to be a problem when the rear batts are reconnected. For now I pulled all remote wires to the amps...all on 1 fuse. I only have a DMM. Will that work for finding current draw, or do I need a clamp?

I looked and looked trying to localize a loud rattle... could not find it. As I got closer it would stop. I gave up, then ran sweeps tonight, after boosting 25Hz 3dB it got much worse, it was the ceiling. When I got to the corner of the bed where a ceiling brace runs, it would stop. Got on the bed, would stop. So I just ran a 2nd beam and killed it at 5:24AM How about some 116dB at 6Hz, 122dB at 8.5Hz?

Mechman that helps a ton! When i did my initial post about this a few weeks back I was assuming it was a current draw, and I had no idea where to even begin. This would make a nice sticky under electrical.

Ya theyre pretty loud. One of the immidiate benefits to chopping the towers down and building the manifold is both of mine are in the other room now. I can still hear them through the port but not near as loud. Those XXXs can take a ton of power, I'd say 1 EP4000 per 2 IB3 18s is a perfect match. A bit more for a pair of XXXs wouldnt be a bad idea, though the pricing on EPs is very hard to pass up. Also, if I push hard in the single digits for more than a couple of seconds I get bad noise from the amps. I wouldnt call it clipping, but I think it is similar though the clip mlights dont come on. EPs are known for being bad below 10Hz. For regular movies Ive never had an issue, let me tell you I have a wild beat of an LFE when i watch War Of The Worlds and Ive never had the issue during it, The Incredible Hulk, or any demanding ULF film. Also, I have old wiring and a 15A fuse box... not a modern wire run with a 20A breaker box. That extra 5A and better wiring would most likely cure my ills. You wouldnt happen to have more 18" XXXs or anything similar like RL-ps or Avalanches, would you?

Is this post serious? no, not one bit. but if you read every single reply Ive gotten here over the last few years from "reputable" members, you would then have to admit that they go a little far with me sometimes.

after sitting over night R1 is 11.91 and R2 is 11.51

Nice subs! I wouldn't mind haveing 4 of those for my IB and 4 more for my van! I giess I upset The Cult when I call it IB, I mean my giant vented cab I'll be watching close, should be awesome. You thinking Behringer EPs? Crowns?

someone blew a subwoofer? I didnt know subwoofers could be blown. They offer a recone kit? Why would such a kit be offered? I could see giving 3000 watts to a 500 watt driver... but 4000 watts to a 10,00000 watt driver? So it blew because he ONLY had 4,000 watts to give a 10,000000 watt driver then? Hmmm. interesting. Recone kit. Who knew?

Whixh version of XXX? Will you be building a manifold or sounds like both facing down? Vibration may become an issue. I thought a loose suspension was as desired as a low Fs... not manditory but desired. A lot of people think IBs have stiff/tight suspensions as there's not air suspension to keep from bottoming, but thats why they get so loud and low with very little power... no suspension... spider/surround/air loading to battle. BFDs are powerful, I've taken a lot of time to play with mine using RoomEqWizard to watch its effects. It's fun!

good answer! I'll take it BTW its 4 cubes for the center, 1 cube per the other 6 channels... so its 4X cone area for 6dB, but again... I know what you mean. You can sit and model and plot all day long, even if you factor in compression, impedance rise, voice coil temp increase, and room acoustics after extensive listening room testing... it never comes out as predicted

my center channel I used 4 of the monster cubes in series/parallel, so it's the same impedance, same power going to them as the other 6 channels. It sits right in between the L and R. All three are at the edge of the entertainment stand, should be minimal loading if any at all. Why did Audyessey set the center only -1.5dB from the L and R rather then -3dB?

Thank you Jack! I did tear the towers down and build the ported manifold, ended up being 1000 cubic feet tuned to...get this... FIVE HURTZ! I get over 110dB from 5Hz up, and I haven't maxed out yet. It's too loud and yes, my neighbors have started to complain! I wish I could build some arays like Brian did, and his IB ain't too bed neither

Finances are here. Time to start ordering. PICS and VIDS to come! What is for sure: 2 Fi Audio IB3 18's, each in their own 128 cubic foot box (before displacement) with a 12" sonotube port 48" long ( to begin with, will cut down raising tuning over time) resulting in a 6.5Hz tune! Dual EP2500's or EP4000's. I am building from the floor up... scratch. I need a solid 7.1 receiver capable of more than 110 watts per channel. I plan on building MT's or MMT's designed by Kevin with Exodus Anarchy's. IDK about using a HP filter yet.. but I may go as high as 15Hz with the tune...I'll start low and have myself some fun and learn all the way up to 15Hz. I'd like some input on the receiver... THX Ultra Certified preffered.. but $500-$600ish seems a good price point. I would also like some input from you guys on a new PC with Blu Ray and whatever I'd need to run REW and connect it to a 40" LCD HDTV. I'll also be building a van walled off with 4 IB3 18's.... ported and tuned to 15Hz most likely. See the Build Log section for it's build log! Lots of batteries and amps going in there, and some Adire Audio Extremis 6.4's and CSS FR125S's! 10X's the power needed...

Thank you very much for your help, Id rather save damaging more equip down the road. Ill keep disconnected, and keep testing.