shizzzon

I just got done building my new workstation that is gaming capable, lol. People have been begging for pics but unfortunately, i just built it this past weekend and my phone died... new phone comes in wednesday. The Build- The Azza Fusion 4000 Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Intel Core I7- 4930K 6core 64GB of DDR3-2400 CAS L= 12 Coolermaster Nepton 280L Closed Loop System Phobya NanoGrease Xtreme TIM Idle Temps- 27-29C stock settings Dual Asus ATI R9-280s Dual EVGA SuperNova 850w PSUs Dual Samsung 840 Evo 256GB Intel MC 240GB Dual Samsung 2 TB HDDs Dual Samsung DVD Burners And just for kicks- 24 Fans in the system. 4 140mm on radiator 2 exhaust top fans 2 PSU fans Dual Delta 120mm Mid Volume fans(pulls air up out of computer into upper heat chamber of case. Rear exhaust fan Quad Memory fans Quad Video Card fans Dual Front intake fans Dual side intake fans Single 230mm bottom intake fan Monitor setup- (i am about to purchase the last one but havent set them all up yet)- Dual 22" 1050p Monitors Dual 16" 720p Monitors Single 27" 1440p Monitor (gaming and graphic design) Single 40-50"(undecided yet) 1080p LED Monitor (for movie playback) This will allow me massive real estate to multitask properly.

Wow, this is real electronic basics. each sub, in theory, would receive 800w but because of DC voltage, Gain setting, electrical supply and impedance curve, each sub will vary from 1w to ~600w. There is no exact answer to what each sub would receive because of all variables involved but they definitely will not receive more than 800w due to the impedance curve.

I dont know if this helps but at least one particular DSS sub i have, one of the terminals was reading 6.3ohms when it should have been reading 1.6ohms. I pressed and released the spring terminals several times, now it's back down to 1.7ohms.. I then hooked an HD8000 to one terminal(the one in question) and the output power was pretty low because the terminal was still varying resistance like crazy... While playing a tone, i would flick the terminal(it's the + polarity) and the amp would completely loose contact with the sub. I would flick again and it would get it back.. So, in my situation, there is something wrong with the terminal. Quentin has already offered to send new terminals. I primarily just wanted to find cause of issue.. Apparently there is something wrong with this terminal so i will be taking him up on his offer as well. Also, there is something internally loose or touching something. It's nothing major(that would cause failure) but i've seen this problem before with other drivers. It's basically human error in building subs. Can happen to anyone. It's not audible once placed in a box so i'm not worried about it.

It wasn't a reference that actually pertained to this topic, just rambling about something going off topic. The chart is for a very specific line of amplifiers that has no relevance in this topic.

This is why i am trying to get people to stop running below 1 ohm impedance on 1 ohm stable amplifiers. That's a whole other topic though but i do not disregard education. I actually have charts of other amplifiers characteristics on how they should perform based on impedance during play. But the main thing is i believe 99% that people will not stop playing below 1ohm for the simple fact the korean\chinese buildhouses keep tailoring their designs to the brand owners request which basically is- Make it .5 or .25ohm stable where the base model is only 1ohm stable. We know of one company who tried that and failed bad- CT Sounds. Other companies pay out even more money to keep them stable below 1ohm but instead of these companies playing hide and seek with their Abusive Specifications, there should be a standard.. 1ohm stable means 1ohm stable, nothing less but i doubt that will ever come.

Terminology doesn't make it non existent. Most people know it as box rise for those not being technical. And electrical system plays a LARGE role in it's effects to. For those who compete, it's easily measurable. That's why in some classes in competition, it's better to remove some batteries in the install to prevent the amplifiers from running at such a low impedance. Your impedance "curve" alters what each frequency in the playable spectrum will be but if a user measures that, that information can greatly be changed\altered by upgrading\downgrading your electrical system... Whatever the purpose is.

no difference. Also, if you add more power without adding more batteries, your rise will go up. current and voltage in influences voltage\current out.

I've never had a problem either with any drivers i've ever used burning leads. Only time i've ever discolored them during a competitive season was when i was running 7x more power than the RMS of the driver. So, going by that, we'd probably need about 12,000w per driver to do any thermal damage.

Pulled one sub out to use it to test some amplifiers and one of the terminals read 6.2ohms.. So, measured the lead, 1.56ohms. Measured right under the heatshrink where it goes to the terminal, still 1.56ohms. So, i started pushing up and down on the terminal spring and it dropped to 3.0ohms. Did it some more, 2.1ohms. Did it some more, 1.7ohms. Will not go any lower than that. What could be causing this? It will be a while before i have time to test the rest but i may have to tie the main supply wire to the terminal and to the lead after cutting off heat shrink to ensure i get lowest impedance possible.

im getting the dual 1ohm ethos.. what other way can i wire them and not need upgraded alternator and batterys?? Wire them all in series to 4ohms. Yes, that's probably at best 1000w but something is better than nothing. Whenever i would test for competition, i would always wire in series to pull less power so voltage drop wasn't a variable in my testing.

Why not just wire the ethos to a higher ohm load until you buy the batts you need?

I was mainly just curious as to what the problem would be. I'll tell you what, i'll pull them all out soon this week and inspect them all so i don't have to keep bugging you if there is more than 1 terminal doing it.

Passive crossovers have 3 sets of terminals. 1 set goes to amp. 1 set goes to woofer. 1 set goes to tweeter. They should be labeled as to which set goes to what. Many passive crossovers also have a cut\boost switch just for the tweeter output as well.

Guess i need a new browser, lol.. I did just try reloading on phone and there is selection to load english manually. I have Note 2. hoping when Note 4 comes out, it's worth getting. The rumored specs sound decent.. although they keep getting more and more dumbed down the closer to it's release, lol..

Their new website auto-translates into english. I use chrome and it works fine doing so. Doesn't work with mobile phones at least not with default browser.

I just found this out as prior talks last year indicates no such intentions on making larger ones. But while talking to them today, it is still up in the air about warranty status on the 30kw. I personally would not recommend getting one if no warranty is valid. I'm surprised they are even doing this, making this amplifier mainstream(after being modified). Taramp's is personally coming here soon to the US to personally oversee operations of use so we can begin production of their first line of US products. They are going to be built like what we expect amplifiers to be able to handle, except this line is built with experiences in the competition lane to excel in the most demanding circumstances. A small portion of this new engineering comes with the new HD-8000 2nd revision just released. This revision is FAR from our vision for the US line but is sure to come once their visit here is complete.

That amplifier is rated to do it's power at 190vDC with a max supply of 225vDC at 0.5ohm stable. This amplifier is no longer being manufactured either. The current high voltage amplifier that is close to this amplifier is the 35,000w at 0.5ohm stable rated at 214vDC with a max supply of 240vDC Hell no it's not. Its a different technology than the Koreans most of us are used to. These beasts are FULLY capable of the power they claim. through a single 0 gauge input? really? Even their 50k which I just found on there website has a single input. Anyways I don't want to hate too hard I'm gonna assume that the pictures are being updated. Some of their older amps were much larger, and I believe had more inputs from the pictures Ive seen. The 50Kw DBR version will pull approximately no more than 300A clipped under expected impedance curve tested in lab. The high voltage amplifiers do NOT use inputs but straight through output wire so the user can connect to multiple cables. I do not know what picture you are seeing that shows inputs on an HV amplifier. The 3k amplifier uses 4awg power\ground and 8awg speaker terminals. Again, they do not use inputs on the HV amplifiers. And on the 12v amplifiers, all amplifiers use adequate terminals. They do not use 1/0 terminals. They use 4/0 terminals on the HD4000, HD5000, HD6500, HD8000, T10.9KW, T14.2KW, T20.2KW The 30KW 12v edition is a custom order product suited ONLY for burps. Based off of the 20.2KW, the 30KW is about 1ft longer to support the extra transformers required to put out rated power. And like the 20.2KW, it's not 1\2 ohm stable either. Not for daily anyways. The board can support just over 1000A fine for daily so wiring to 1ohm or to 1\2 with crazy impedance curve would be fine. Now, based on that limitation, wiring to 1ohm on the 30KW is NOT safe for daily. The 30KW is the only amplifiers Taramp's produces that is not suited for music safely. Burp amp only due to current draw. But, with adequate electrical, wiring low and rising to 1ohm will net the largest, once again, power output ever from a 12v amplifiers. The 30kw is also very expensive for just a burp amp coming in at just under $3,000. That may not sound expensive for that much power but for not being safe to play music and what other options you have with their smaller amps to save money, it's really only for serious competitors. Shocker Hal used 9 of them to break OVER a 186db. And yes, he has destroyed Craig Butler's score more than once in the past. Now, there is a newer 30kw amp where they have changed some things that is going to play music but it's up in the air right now if they want to support a warranty for it. Again, lots of current.. It's tricky decision. Yes, the HDS400.4 is VERY fragile and because of such is not recommended any longer to be imported into the USA due to it's plastic heatsink. Taramp's was contacted and informed to prohibit shipping these amplifiers here and stick to aluminum based heatsinks for the US market.

why? If you are looking for answers, get a multimeter out or contact DC.

yea, i believe he's said before that he doesn't work on anything over 7kw.

His buildhouse is now offering to the worldwide public to purchase CT's own inventory AT COST since CT no longer has the funds to pay for it all. IF you want some cheap amps.. now's the time.. 10w per $1 + INT'L shipping. I forgot to add- If you do go this route, it is illegal to sell it as new. You will be sued if found out.

usb noise meter is literally the most sophisticated full range high amplitude meter there is available. So complex, there is no way someone is going to be able to test and test and test to tune to the meter, The whole point is not to be able to. Measures using stock algorithm, 16 points per second. Good luck,

Strapping technology is still not solid and all brands who use strapping have had issues. This may be why most brazilian amplifiers do not strap and one company who does, Stetsom, uses Parallel strapping, which is different than any korean\chinese tech has ever marketed. I have never been a fan of strapping as i've witnessed so many amps go down in failure, even some when the headunit was just on pause. It's input signal issues with the slave amplifier side. Until these companies figure out what they are all doing wrong, i'll never applaud strapping. But with CT Sounds.. you did hear that even Kevin.. oh no, heh, but yes, Kevin even has 1st hand experience in seeing that CT Sounds is about to go down.. Buildhouse is about to call 1-800-Ask-Gary on them soon because they are owed money... Enough to destroy them.

All batteries need to be thoroughly grounded as skipping this step results in large voltage drops under load or no charging from the alt at all(if no ground exists) to the batt(s). The alt is poorly grounded to the batt ground through it's bracket. To have stout voltage under load, front to rear ground, front to rear power, ground every batt or bank with multiple runs. I personally run 2 runs of 4/0 power and 1 run of 4/0 ground per 270A of alt and ground batt banks with several 1-4/0 cables.

Make a video and contact mechman. Send them video if they need it.