JohnHinerman

Hello everyone. It's been a while since I've posted here. I've been driving and enjoying the stereo in my truck for awhile, and now I wanted to make a couple of changes and I was looking for some advice and/or guidance in doing so. The current situation... I have a Ram pickup which currently consists of the following: Stock Uconnect head unit -> JL cleansweep -> front channels Audio Control DQT -> Alpine PDX-F6 CH1&2 150x4 -> ID XS-65 Components (using the XS x-over and tweeter. The 6.5 has been replaced with an Eminence Alpha after blowing the XS6" mid) . Rear channels go from clean sweep to PDX-F6 ch 3&4 -> ID CTX69 6x9's. Front channels also split directly out of the Clean Sweep to a Alpine PDX-M12 -> 2 Fi SSD 10 subwoofers (not the current version. Mine have the "funnel??" looking motor structure. Proposed update: I was thinking about using all 4 channels of the PDX-F6 for the front speakers. Instead of using CH1&2 going to the XS crossovers and then to the mid and tweet, I was going to use CH1&2 to the mids, and 3&4 to the ID XS-28 tweets that came with the XS-65 components and probably either FI N.7's or one of the two PRV 6.5 options in the attachment, and letting the rear fill run off the head unit power or possibly a small 2ch amp. I also recently picked up SounDigital black EVO SD3000.1 which hasn't been installed yet, but will go-to the FI 10's. The PDX-M12 will go on the shelf I guess. It seems like a great amp, but @ 1200Wx1 , each subwoofer only gets about 600w each. The people are FI tell me these woofers are happiest with about 1000w each, which is why I bought the SD3000.1 , which I guess I'll have to turn down a little bit to not kill the woofers. Is this a good idea to use the 4 channel completely for the fronts instead of just 2 channels and the passive xover? Or should I keep it the way it is power and xover wise? I'm going to replace the Eminence 6's either way, I just haven't decided which speaker to use. I like the FI N.7 by the description, but I'm not sure if the $150 is for a pair, or each. I'm trying not to break the bank. The PRV looks interesting with the neo mags, but I don't know anything about them. I've never used components with individual amp channels powering each component. I know that there is power loss by using a single channel with passive crossovers, but maybe the 150w/ch is sufficient for that setup? Next question is if I do use the 4ch for each speaker along with active crossovers, where would a good starting point be to set the HP filters for the Tweeters? Lastly, I'm getting some buzzing from one of the rear 6x9 speakers, so I was looking to replace those. They are rear fill, and depending on the setup will either use 2ch of the F6, or run of either head unit power or possibly a much smaller 2 ch amp it the head unit does not provide enough power. Im looking for speaker recommendations. If I stay with the F6 on them, I need something that will handle the power. I saw that PRV makes a 6x9 rated at 250w RMS with a 1.5" coil, which seems like it would handle it. Freq response is only rated for 500-12k which I don't know is ok for rear speakers. Is there another recommendation which isn't super expensive? I'm attaching photos of the two PRV 6's and the one 6x9 that I am considering. I'm sure that someone will tell me I'm doing everything wrong. In trying to learn and that is why I'm asking these questions. Any and all advice is warmly appreciated. Thanks in advance guys!

Are you guys talking about this Mini-Dsp? https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4-hd?gclid=Cj0KCQiAgs7RBRDoARIsANOo-Hg7juPILIPIkjxXEqrEatuKQrb5hp94XNulUHrDUwCK0cUwvK8pa80aApatEALw_wcB

As far as crossover goes, I think that a 3way is the best option. I can run 2 front channels in and crossover tweets, mids, and subwoofer with a remote level control since the SounDigital amp doesn't have one.

Thanks man. As far as the equipment goes, I think I could have probably got some better stuff if I did more research when I bought it all. I could have saved some money and got some better amps instead of the Alpine PDX. All of the huge power smaller brand amps out there today are insane! I know these mainstream consumer brands that are on store shelves aren't that great. Brands like Alpine, Kenwood, Pioneer, etc. Aside from the head units, you never see any of these awesome builds online using any of these Brand Name amplifies or speakers. I went toward the PDX because of all the fancy tech Alpine describes that they are built with, but more than anything else was the size and that they are stackable. They fit perfectly under the driver seat in my truck which is very limited on places to put equipment while maintaining the daily use of the vehicle. I noticed that when I went from the ID to the Eminence, the sound quality changed. The ID sounded very natural and smooth, and things like guitar strings and vocals just had a much more full and clean sound to them. The Eminence are definitely louder, and sound fine on loud rock music and rap, but everything sounds more compressed together, or maybe muddy. It just doesn't have the same sort of depth and fullness to them. They have been fine for $40/each, but I'm missing the overall sound quality and enjoyment of being surrounded by it. That is why I'd like to get a more normal type of speaker back in there. You think that I should just get rid of the rear door speakers completely? Even versus just putting some decent value priced 6x9s in there and running them on the HU or just a small 2ch to add a little more volume and sound in there? I know that rear fill is really not intended to be listened it, but it does at least put some sound into the back seat.

I *think* that the ID xs-28 tweeters are actually pretty good? These still work work fine, and if I can avoid having to buy a whole new set of tweeters, I'd rather keep what I have. When I had the XS components complete with the XS mids, Tweets, and xovers, it seemed to sound pretty darn good. Those XS 6.5's are expensive to replace though, and that's why I bought the eminence that I have now which are going buh-bye. They don't sound nearly as good as the ID's did, but they play loud. I assume the FI N.7's are probably good speakers? But I don't know. I was looking at the PRV originally simply because of the power handling and the cost. Now that I see the FI's are $150/pair vs each, that is something I'd be fine with. I can afford $150/pair, but not $300/pair like I originally thought they were. I know that FI makes good stuff, but I haven't seen any reviews of the N.7's. It seems that these are SQ CAR speakers and not PA speakers like a lot of the other offerings. From what I understand, PA speakers are generally louder and allow for higher powered amps, but don't sound nearly as good? That would make me lean toward the FI. I just need to verify that those 7" speakers are going to fit. If they won't, I'll have to go back to a 6-6.5", and then again I'll need some help since the PRV are no good. A friend recommended the Crescendo's, not sure which one, or the Evil? My ideal options then would be the Fi N.7 along with my current ID XS-28 tweets for the front stage. Then I need to find some 6x9's to fill my rear doors. I may end up running those off the head unit for now, and then maybe get a compact 50-100w small 2CH to power those in the future. Again, I want a good value that will work well for the rear speakers without breaking my bank. As far as processing, right now I have the OEM head unit running into a JL Audio Clean Sweep CL441DSP to flatten the factory EQ, then the front channels run into a Audio Control DQT 1/3 octave digital EQ. People have told me that this EQ is junk, but it's what I have, and with 1/3 octave plus a couple of parametrics built into it, it is going to have to work I can't afford to buy another new EQ on top of the other items I need to put this together. The subwoofers and rear channels we're just coming out flat from the Clean Sweep and into the amps without any further processing. To go active on the front stage, I believe that I need to get another active Crossover since the crossovers on the PDX-F6 limit to high pass to 400hz, which I would think is far to low for the Tweeters. So right now I'm in the market for some sort of quality crossover in order to setup the active front stage. Any recommendations that are good without costing a fortune? And again, with those ID tweeters on the Fi n.7 mids, where about would the tweeter hp need to kick in? I have already spent a lot of money (for me, this is a lot of money. I'm not rich) on the current amps, subwoofers, etc. Add to that the $450 I spent on the new SoundDigital subwoofer amp, plus the money I need to spend now - $150 for the Fi door speakers, $???.?? On some sort of crossover, $???.?? On rear 6x9s, $???.?? On more wire and cables, etc. This will be the most money I've spent on any car stereo. I know that it's not going to be anywhere even close to what a lot of guys have into there systems, but to me it's a lot of money and it's what I can afford, so I am proud of it. I just want to update it and improve it a little bit with this new stuff and have something that is going to sound pretty good and play pretty loud. And to sum this up, I need help with: - knowing that I would be making a good choice in the FI N.7's for the front doors, and if I cant make those fit, a recommendation for some 6-6.5" speakers that sound good and can take the power and stay in that $150ish area. -that my ID XS-28 tweeters don't suck and will work well with the FI 7's and active power -recommendation for a active cross over to allow me to run my fronts actively. I think that I just need an active 2-way cross over for this? The sub amp has it's own built in crossover, unless it would work better to get a 3-way and use that for tweets, mids, subs? -recommended cross over freq for the front tweeters and mids -recommendation on some affordable good 6x9s for my rear doors. Thanks guys for all of your help. I appreciate you guys taking your time and sharing your knowledge to help me get this together the right way since so many of you have so much more experience and knowledge on this stuff. I can't express my appreciation. Im sorry that my posts are so long. I have a hard time trying to get everything that I'm trying to say into a short post. I'm just not good at it. I've also attached a few pictures of what I have now. Those 6" ID speakers that I built a 6x9 adapter for are no longer being used. Since one blew, I replaced them in my front doors with some Eminence crappy PA speakers because of how much the replacement ID XS speakers cost.

Active... Thanks! I wasn't sure exactly what to call that. The Fi's for $150 sound like a great deal. I would just have to make sure they will actually fit. If I do to active, where would a good starting point for the crossovers to use on the Tweeters?

Hey guys. Just trying to get some quick help. I have Eminence Alpha 6 4ohm drivers in my front doors. One is buzzy, and I want to replace the pair. I am torn between the Cresendo PDX-6 , or the Incriminator dpx-6. They are running on an Alpine PDX 150/ch. Is there another option I should be looking at? Or are those two options good? Is one preferred over the other? Thanks!

Audio Control DQT

What would a good option for mids be then? The main reason I out the Eminence in was because one of the Image Dynamic speakers I had went bad. I was looking for something with a little more power handling and not too expensive. I'm totally open to ideas

They are IB

I inserted my DD-1 disc into the KDC-X494 in my boat to set levels, and the CD won't eject. I press the eject button but it acts like I'm not pressing anything. Doesn't display eject or make any attempt to when I press it. It just ignores my pushing of the button. I tried pressing the reset button under the face, but no help. Any ideas? Is is a common Kenwood issue? How do I get my disc back!?

I ordered two SSD10 woofers back before xmas. I have them installed in a vented enclosure, and have now had a chance to listen to them daily for a couple of months. I just have to say that I have never been happier with any drivers I have owned. I have yet to find any music that gives these Fi's any problems. They do everything I've ever asked. Rap, Rock, Electronic, Country, Bass CD's... Everything I've played through them sounds great. They are loud, play low, are tight yet still boom when needed. Never do they distort, pop, overheat, or anything like that. I've used everything under the sun over the last 17 years, and by far these are my favorite subs I've owned. I was a little leary ordering woofers over the internet, never even seeing any of their products in real life. I liked what I read, and the construction, but never had a chance to hold or listen to one. Just wanted to say that anyone who is looking for a woofer in the price range, you can't go wrong. They are actually a really good deal for the $194/ea that I paid. They are far better than any "brand name" driver you may see in the stores at similar prices. As soon as I open the box and picked this monster up, I knew it was a serious driver. Love em.. Think I am going to replace the Type R in my Eclipse come spring... The only real suggestion that I could make would be to update the information on the website. The pictures no longer represent the subwoofer. There are now spacers between the motor structure and basket for cooling, and it seems as if the motor/magnet structure has been changed a bit also. The woofers are a larger magnet diameter and depth than are posted on the specs sheet on the Fi website. Although it may not be a big deal, in some situations when mounting space is limited, it could cause unexpected problems for the customer.

Don't really see a security section, but I just had a quick question regarding Directed units that feaure the dual stage impact sensor that is an internal part of the main unit. I used to mount external impact sensors to the steering column shaft. I always seemed to have good results with the sensitivity there. Anyway, the new units that are all integeral, state in the install manual "since the shock sensor does not work well when mounted firmly to metal, we recommend against screwing down the control module" So how and where is the best place to mount to control module? I just installed one top of the line 2 way unit earlier with zip ties to part of the metal dash bracing, and even with the sensitivty al the way up, you really have to pound hard on te vehcile to get any response. I also installed another basic 1 way unit this afternoon on a dodge, and used double sided tape to attach the control module under the dash. On high sensitivty it is working better than the first unit, but t seems like I should be able to get more sensitivity out of it. Soooooo, any installers out there have any exerience with this units, and tips or advice? Thanks!

Hmmm...just seems weird zip tieing the entire unit to a wiring harness, but I guess its worth a shot.

I just looked at my woofers, and noticed the "Chrome Red Fi" is coming off the cone. It isn't peeling from the edge (like at tip of the F or I as if something peeled it back) It is coming from the middle part of the logo as it bends over the dust cap. It almost seems like the foil-ish vinyl is flexible enough to follow the curve of the dust cap? I think standard vinyl would have been fine? Anyway, anyone else have any issues like this? Is it possible to get replacement logo stickers for the dust caps?

Thanks man! Email on it's way...

About to put three 10" L3 D2 in a truck. The amplifier is a RF T1500-1bdcp with a birth sheet of 1150x1 @ 4ohm 1734x1 @ 2ohm 1885x1 @ 1ohm The L3's show 400w RMS. My options are wiring them parallel or series parallel. Can these woofers handle the power if I run the amp at 1.3ohm? Or should I go with the 3 ohm load Thanks !

Whats up...first wanted to say thanks to everyone on the SSA forums.. Very glad I found it. A lot of good info and members here.... now that I'm done kissing ass lol ..... I need some recommendations.. I recently built an enclosure to replace the old setup in my Eclipse. I built it to fit how I wanted in the hatch, and did not have a pre-planned volume. When I finished this thing, I ended up with: 1.62 cu ft Slot Ported @ 32hz 7.5" max mounting depth. I layed out both 12" and 10" cut out patterns on it, and have a Type R 10" temp mounted in it so I could still play until I chose on a final driver. I'm actually very impressed how the Alpine is playing in this enclosure. 100x better than it did in the small sealed enclosure it was in originally. The mono amp is advertised at 600w RMS, however birth certificate states 756w RMS. It does this at either 2ohm or 4ohm which opens up a few more options for woofer selection. After searching for a 12" woofer with rec volume which works, mounting depth, and Qts, it seems that most of the woofers I have found want a little bit more volume. I emailed a few companies, but Skar was the only one that actually replied. Kevin from Skar replied quickly, and tells me that this setup would work great with the VVX12. To me it looks like a very good option, however I would like to see if anyone has any input before I actually order the Vvx. I've never seen a Skar woofer, let alone heard one, but people seem to think highly of them here. I would feel better if it was a US made driver, but he assures me they are top quality. Anyway, I'd like to spend about $200 at the most, and if anyone has any other suggestions, or confirmation that the VVX12 might be my best choice, I'm open for ideas... fwiw here is a picture of the enclosure. This is before the bondo, putty, sanding, and finished coating, but you get the idea...

Won't help? I'm not really trying to fix anything. All I wanted to originally do is put a 12" woofer in this box. There was never a problem. There isn't a problem with port noise or anything else like.

Ok nevermind.... I'm not looking for another speaker instead of a port. All I asked for was some speaker recommendations and everyone wants to just attack the port because they claim it doesn't work. Sorry I asked.

To me it just sounds like the Alpine is at its limits and a 12" would be nice to have...

I donno, it works pretty well physics would say otherwise Back to the original posting, I'm just looking for a woofer... leave my port alone lol

I donno, it works pretty well

grrrr How come my notifications never work?? Anyway, port 8x2x20something (can't remember, don't have my stuff here) as far as improving, here is what was going on... I had the Type R in a tiny enclosure, and it really just didn't not produce much SPL or play very low. It was a day I had nothing going on, so I broke out the MDF and saw's with the idea I just wanted something that was louder and played lower. I didn't plan on using the 10" Alpine in it when I was building it, I just didn't want to be without any low end in the mean time. Turns out, this little Alpine plays VERY loud and sounds pretty darn good. What I want is a woofer that can play rap like Zoe, Jeezy, or anything else, plus a bass disc here and there, and play it loud and clean. Right now my sun roofer pops out, visors shake, etc. At the same time I listen to a lot of rock music, so I would like to be able to dial down the sub level a few clicks and be able to enjoy loud harder music while keeping my kick drums and bass lines tight and under control (is this asking too much??)