cobra93

Are you looking to fuse to keep the amps safe or just to protect against the wire shorting to ground from the front battery to the rear? If it's from the front battery, I'd fuse for the wire (as you said). In the rear, to the amp. I'd fuse for the amp.

If you need an adapter anyway and you only need an additional 3/8" to use the drivers you already have, it would "seem" like it should be very close to working. How thick and what did you plan to make the adapter out of? What's in the way behind the magnet, the window, the window track or an impact beam?

Keep in mind that electrically in phase doesn't mean acoustically in phase. If both door speakers are hooked up the same (pos. and neg.) they could be out of phase to your ears and reversing one speaker could help. Where in ohio are you at?

Nm

I've been watching this thread for while. You seem to be starting to listen to suggestions. I will give you an option that may help you that I hasn't been mentioned. You said you don't care if you have to rebuild the enclosure, so build your enclosure, but leave enough room around it to do an external port. This way you can change the port length without things getting to complicated. Your net volume will stay the same while your tuning can be changed until you find what you like. If you build the enclosure to the largest net volume you plan to try, you will still be able to reduce the net volume by placing bricks/books in the enclosure until you find the net volume/port length that works for you. Keep in mind the smaller the net volume, with the same port length will raise the tuning freq. of the system. Use some t-nuts and weather stripping where the port bolts to the box so you get a good seal time after time. You can then model each change and you will see what the responce graph looks like and you can shoot for this "curve" if you change the driver to something else in the future. Good luck.

I think the drive has to be "FAT 32" format, not "NTFS". I also remember reading, when researching my p99rs, that there is max size the head unit will recognise. What size thumb drive are you using? I have a 64 GB nad have room to spare using WMA format. If you go with a hard drive go with an SSD, a standard HD with platters may not last long (as stated above). Good luck.

Thanks for the update. I know what you mean about the "I wish I'd of done this different" . Keep the updates comin when you get to them. I've read about getting rid of turn on/off pops, I'm sure you'll sort that out.

Fountek FR88 EX, my system is in my sig. I can play them down to 250hz., but I seem to loose some impact from my 830946 sls's crossed that low. I keep them crossed at 315hz., they sound pretty good like that. I have 4 exodus anarchy still new in the box that may play around with, not sure how they'll sound vs. my sls's or the 8" sls you have. I mean 2 per side of the 6" vs. 1 of the 8". This is all speculation until I have the car to work with. I was mostly interested in the mini dsp and possibly the nexus 7 so I can keep the factory "stereo" and whatever I put in separate. I still have a lot of reseach to do, but I have the time.

I feel like a stalker, lol. I read your reply in your other post. Thanks lithium.

Thanks for the replies. I'm still in the planning/learning stages at this point as I don't own the car yet. It sounds as though my wide band up front may not be happy reaching as low as 250hz, if that's as high as the sls will play and still sound good. I forgot, you have a mid in your system, so you may not need/want it to play any higher. Thanks again.

I ordered the dayton and some other stuff. Thanks guys.

My sony DA2ES died on me a couple of days ago. I'm looking for a small 2 channel amp to drive two bookshelf speakers, I believe they're 8ohm (could be 6 ohm). I want to plug my phone into a dock that I'll run a 3.5 mm stereo jack to something like the dayton audio DTA-120. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-120-class-t-mini-amplifier-60-wpc--300-3800 I have seen some other amps by plye and kinter, but I don't know anything about them. When I was younger pyle wasn't very good, have they changed? Has anyone used the dta-120 or would you recommend something else. I guess my budget would be ~ $100.00 or less for what I'm using it for. Thanks.

Thanks for the links. I read the log, but it just kind of stopped. Did you wind up needing the line driver? I have to admit I'm drooling over the 8" sls in your doors. How do they sound and how high are you running them?

Thanks lithium, I'll do a search for the build log. I found it. I'll read throught it, thanks for the quick reply.

Thanks 95. overall size matters most. I have 2 bookself speakers mounted to my headboard, think water bed. I use those at night to fall asleep or my brain keeps thinking and won't let me. My alarm clock sounds so bad. This is the easiest alternative I could think of. When I looked at adcoms site everything seemed to have the footprint of a home theater component. I don't plan to replace the da2es anytime soon. Thanks again for the suggestions everyone.

Thanks for the answers. That's what I wanted to hear 95honda. I may go with the dayton, the adcom stuff is to big. I said small, I meant in size, I didn't make that very clear in my original post.

RISE, RISE, RISE from the dead. This thread just stopped. What did you wind up doing? I'm looking to get a 2013 SHO this spring and thought a tablet and mini dsp could work well as a solution. I don't think I want to mess with things like the bit one or ms8. I doubt trying to hide my dex-p99rs somewhere will work very well either.

This thread is amusing, puts a smile on my face. The sad thing is I work with a guys like this. He knows everything until you tell him he's wrong, then he says "right" , does a 180* and proceeds to tell me why he's right after he's changed his story. Drives me nuts. I've told him many times that I have more respect for someone that admits he doesn't know how to do something then the guy who says he knows, proceeds to screws it up and come to me for help.

Happy birthday Jon!!!

Happy birthday tatts.

I tried transmision line ( labyrinth ) once for an eclipse 8808 dvc. I thought it was loud for what it was, and huge, however I did something wrong in my design. I had rareification or rectification, not sure. The cone would get sucked into the enclosure the longer I played it. I would like to try this again as a home theater option, but not for an automobile. I think the enclosure ( for one eight) was 4'x4' x 1'. I don't remember the formula I used, I think it was from Weems/Koonce "Great sound speaker manual". I have found a lot of info online, but the formulas are beyond my understanding. If you try to do this share you results please. i think I was researching quarter wave enclosures when I got lost in the numbers. Good luck with this venture.

I haven't posted in a while, but I will to make your life easier. Look back at the answers you've gotten already, really read them. M5 has given the answer that applies to your question. You haven't taken the time to give any explanation as to what you like or would like to improve, therefore, no one can help. Take some time, think about your next post after reading m5's sig. Put some effort into what you like/want and maybe you'll receive some help you can use to your benefit. good luck.

I'm a boilermaker in ohio. We mostly do work for powerhouses and refineries. Those are some impressive engine/compressors you have going on there. It's good to see some manual labor for a change. The world needs grunts, even if I'm one of them. I should mention I'm a shop rat, not a field guy. I've done field work and have been unimpressed with the dumb leading the dumb in my area. It's a wonder anything works in the world. Nice pics, keep them coming.

My understanding is if it's not stuffed it's a Labyrinth, not a trans mission line. I have only tried one for an eclipse 8" 88120 sub. It had great outout and sounds great, but i got it wrong and the cone would slowly get sucked into the enclosure. rareificationrectification or something. It was big and I would not try again for the car. Maybe home and a tuned pipe instead.

Don't buff your car too much, you're removing the damaged/oxidized and good paint ever time you buff it. How bad is the paint? Is it oxidized/scratched bad? If not get a clay bar and your garden hose and go over the entire car from top to beltline first. Then you can do below the belt line (below door molding). I'd recommend some Zymol HD Cleanse and apply per directions. This will super clean the paint and ready the paint for wax. It also makes it very difficult to scratch the paint when rubbing a towel over it. Use your favorite wax, one or two coats. Keep the car out of the sun as much as possible. Don't use any products that contain silicone is you want your efforts to last. If the car gets dusty, not dirty, you can use some type of spray wash. Meguiars is what I used many years ago and it worked great. Welcome to the world of trying to keep a black car looking good.