ShagggDiesel

$250 shipped today only!

Howdy fellas. Been a while since I've been on here. I have a question for you all.. I have a 12" Fi BTL UFO motor and basket just sitting at my house. I'm curious as to what I could get out of this thing if I were to sell it. It's an assembled motor/frame. The surround and spider landing needs to be sanded down for a recone, but other than that it is in good condition. I've had this sub for years now with 2 recones in it. Now I have no use and would like to get some money out of it. What do you guys think?

Little rust on pole piece, easily removed.

I will upload those pictures when I get to work this morning.

I'll take $300 shipped.

Ahh, gotcha. Well it was a D2 for sure. It's on the market if anyone is interested.

It has the universal gap. It was a D2 but that doesn't matter now You can get a D2 recone for it.

I have an old school 10" Orion Cobalt subwoofer that has a perfect coil, but needs a new surround , dustcap and spider. Does anyone know where I can buy these kind of parts individually for relatively cheap? MAT Electronics has everything I need for VERY cheap, but I think you have to have a minimum order of $30 before shipping costs, which sucks considering the parts I need are less than 5$ for everything.. I don't need anything extreme as far as parts are concerned.. Just a simple spider that I can attach to a 2" coil and a foam or rubber surround to make this sub playable again. More for a fun little project and to have a speaker to play with than anything which is why top of the line parts are not needed.

This is my first attempt at sealing off my trunk. With the new box forward facing, there is a gap on top that is about 1 inch in height, and gaps on ether side about 2-3 inches. What are some ideas on sealing this off completely and still look somewhat respectable? The rear deck is completely sealed off already. The only sealing that needs done is the gaps between the box and the trunk opening.

Sorry for the delayed answer. This is a daily setup, but as mentioned, I may compete a little here and there locally just for fun, nothing serious. In other terms, numbers are not the goal. On another note.. I got everything installed and set up today. I believe I was sent the wrong recone. Notes around 35hz to up to 55hz make the coil SLAM against the back plate on half the rated power. Lower notes not so bad unless they are a punchy low note, then it sound like the cone is going to jump out of the basket and hit me in the head. Flame me for this, but it IS a PSI recone on a UFO BTL motor. It seems as if the spiders were placed too high on the former or something? Too long of a coil? I e-mailed PSI, awaiting reply. I will be getting a recone from Fi as soon as funds allow. $200 pissed in the wind on this one obviously.

So there would be no audible difference from not sealing off what I have left? This is a daily setup, but I want the most out of it. I may compete locally for fun, but not a number chaser.

Only problem with the foam, is that I don't want to get the foam all over the carpet of this box in case this setup changes in the future. I'd like for the box to be reusable as is.

Well, this is a daily setup, and I mainly looking for ease of installation. I would just like to achieve best results..

Danville. Roughly 45 minutes south of Lexington.

I will say that the Dcon is not amazing in a sealed enclosure. I had a 10" Dcon on 300 watts in the recommended sealed enclosure and was not what I was expecting. Lacked output and what some people consider "punch". It did blend and sound amazing musically though. I put it in a ported enclosure and it was a night and day difference with output. If you go with the Dcon, I personally suggest a mid-high 30's tuned ported enclosure. My girlfriend listens to country and alternaive rock, and 37hz worked wonderful. She now has a 15" Fi X at 34hz and is equally impressive on these genres.

I'm in the process of designing an enclosure for my Fi BTL UFO 12. I've drawn up two different designs with the only difference being the way the port is constructed. I've seen it done both ways, but I am unsure which would be most beneficial in my situation. Each design is 2.85ft^3 net tuned to 33hz for a front firing setup sealed from the trunk of a 99 Pontiac Grand Am. Does anyone have any experience/input on which would work best for me as far as loading, port noise etc.?Please use "left design" and "right design" when referencing for clarity as I am unsure what to call each one specifically. Note: I will not be adding any 45's within the port, but each edge will be rounded over with a router. I will add 45's within the chamber where necessary though.

I recently installed one of the new Fi X 15's in my girlfriends blazer.. really exceeded my expectations. I can only imagine what 2 could do... hers in running off of a cheap VVME "1500 watt" amp. Had to gain down due to too much power, but still crazy loud.

I've been waiting forever to hear back from PSI with an invoice for a recone and I'm starting to lean toward just buying one straight from Fi. I have a 12" UFO BTL that has been reconed once already. Is the Xmax coil option an option that you can add regardless, or do you have to originally have an Xmax coil to get it? I'm not sure what the sub has/had. I just don't want to order a recone and it not work.

Still does not answer my question. And isn't it usually written on the coil? My coil is black.

As previously stated, I am now leaning toward a Fi recone. Which is why I posted this thread.

So I used Tee Nuts to try to bolt two pieces of scrap wood together for a test. It would work, but when I tighten the bolt, the nut pulls out of the wood. Is there any sort of glue or anything I could use to hold the nuts in the wood and not pull right out when I tighten the panel down?

I'm currently building my first 6th order bandpass enclosure. I need a way to make the top panel secure to the box, but easily removable for access to the sub once the top is put on. Here is what I have done thus far. I have also added weather stripping all around to prevent leaking. I'm looking for suggestions for the best way to go about this other than glue and screws. Thanks in advance.

Is that possible with what I already have? Everything is cut and painted just waiting to find the best way to secure the top panel.

How well do these hold up in a 3/4" panel of MDF? Seems like they would not hold good and split the wood. What's the best option?

You say "missing certain frequencies" and "rattling". Sounds to me it could be a leak in the enclosure. This would cause the output and frequency response to be noticeably and could also be a part of the rattling. Possibly two panels have come loose and hitting each other when the subs are playing. I would take the subs out and check for any leaks or breaks in the box before purchasing anything. Having a leaky enclosure can cause your subs to smell as well.. If you play that kind of power on a sub with a big leak, it's almost like free-airing on full power, which is not a good thing.